Exploring Heidelberg

Heidelberg, one of Germany’s most picturesque cities, sits on the banks of the Neckar River, framed by forested hills on both sides. Overlooking the historic Old Town are the romantic ruins of Heidelberg Castle, the city’s most iconic landmark. With roots stretching back to Roman times, Heidelberg flourished as a centre of commerce and learning during the Middle Ages. Its university, founded in 1386, is the oldest in Germany and has long been a cornerstone of European intellectual life. Today, Heidelberg’s Old Town is a beloved destination for travellers, its cobblestone streets, elegant architecture and lush surroundings drawing visitors from around the world. On my most recent trip – my third – I once again found many reasons to love this city. In the guide below, I’ve shared the best things to see and do in Heidelberg, including a scenic self-guided walking tour through the Old Town and a detailed two-day itinerary.

I visited Heidelberg as part of a rail tour along the Rhine and Moselle rivers in western Germany. During this tour, I visited four of the 17 Historic Highlights of Germany heritage cities. These heritage cities are typically university towns with a rich historical legacy, and with a vibrant cultural and culinary scene. Another similarity is that these cities are easy to explore on foot.

I recommend spending two nights in Heidelberg to see the main sights, and to enjoy the historic, culinary and cultural offerings, as well as the beautiful natural surroundings. Here’s a suggested two-day Heidelberg itinerary:

Heidelberg 2-day itinerary

Day 1

• Morning: Explore the Old Town (see my walking route below)
• Afternoon: After lunch, visit one of the museums such as the Student Prison and Great Aula of the University, or the Museum of the Palatinate. In the late-afternoon, consider a hike to the Philosopher’s Walk for stunning (sunset) views across Heidelberg.
• Evening: Enjoy a wine at a weinstube followed by dinner.

Day 2

• Morning: Take the funicular to Heidelberg Castle. Explore the Castle, Barrel Building, Pharmacy Museum, gardens and enjoy the view from the Scheffel terrace.
• Afternoon: Continue up the mountain on the historic funicular to Königstuhl (King’s Seat). Have lunch at Berggasthof and/or hike along the Via Naturae path before returning to the Old Town. In the late-afternoon, enjoy a scenic cruise along the Neckar river.
• Evening: Walk along the Old Bridge to see the city lights, followed by dinner.

Heidelberg Old Town self-guided walking tour

The map below shows the main attractions in Heidelberg as well as a self-guided walking tour through the historic Old Town (Altstadt), which can comfortably be done in a day. I’ve also included separate walking routes to the Philosopher’s Way and around Heidelberg Castle. In addition, I highly recommend taking the historic funicular to the top of Königstuhl, a wonderful experience in itself, for gorgeous panoramic views, forest trails and a terrific lunch. 

Things to see in the Old Town of Heidelberg – a walking route

The Altstadt is the beating heart of Heidelberg, filled with photogenic lanes, lively cafés, and historic buildings. Hauptstrasse, one of Europe’s longest pedestrian streets, is lined with boutiques, restaurants and historic buildings. Follow my walking route along the top sights in Heidelberg’s Old Town as well as through charming side alleys that reveal quieter corners of the city.

Old Bridge and City Gate

Start your walk at the Stadttor (City Gate) and Alte Brücke (Old Bridge). Built in the 18th century, the Alte Brücke, with its twin-tower gate, connects the Old Town with the northern bank of the Neckar River.

The bridge is one of the most photographed spots in Heidelberg, especially with the castle towering above. Pause to admire the Bridge Monkey statue, a quirky symbol of the city.

Tip: book a stay at Hotel Höllander Hof for gorgeous views of the bridge and the Neckar river. I stayed there and the view from my room, and the wonderful staff, were two of the highlights of my visit to Heidelberg.

Heiliggeistkirche (Church of the Holy Spirit)

From the bridge, walk up Steingasse (a lovely street lined with cafés, restaurants and a brewery) to the Church of the Holy Spirit. This 14th century church, in Gothic style, has a fascinating history marked by rivalries between Protestants and Catholics. These days, the separate doors for Protestants and Catholics can still be seen, as well as the market stalls that adorn its exterior. 

Marktplatz and Rathaus

The Marktplatz is a large square with the Rathaus (Town Hall) in one corner and the Church of the Holy Spirit in the other. There are numerous cafés in the square, where you can enjoy a refreshment with a view of the castle and the church.

Kornmarkt and Karlsplatz

From Marktplatz, continue your walk along Hauptstrasse, one of Europe’s longest pedestrian streets, to Kornmarkt and Karlsplatz. These two historic squares, adorned with beautiful fountains and overlooked by the castle, are the main locations for the Christmas Market every year. 

Knight’s House St. George

From Karlsplatz, backtrack along Hauptstrasse to the Church of the Holy Spirit and continue to the Knight’s House St. George. This 16th century building, with its ornate sandstone façade, is a prime example of the Renaissance style in Heidelberg. Nowadays, it houses the Hotel Zum Ritter St. Georg.

Jesuit Church

Continue along Hauptstrasse and turn left into Heugasse. You’ll see your next stop right away: the imposing Jesuit Church. Built in the 18th century, it features a striking, white interior.

Heidelberg University

The next stops include various attractions of the Heidelberg University. Founded in the 14th century, Heidelberg University remains one of Europe’s leading academic institutions. There are numerous places of interest, including the Studentenkarzer (Student Prison), Alte Aula (Old Aula), University Library and Marstall (the university canteen housed in the 16th century royal stables and armoury).

The Student Prison is a quirky attraction in Heidelberg that’s both amusing and fascinating. In the 18th century, students who committed minor offences, like boisterous behaviour, were sent to stay for up to a week in the Student Prison. They marked their stay with graffiti on the walls. In 1878, Mark Twain, who was visiting Heidelberg, heard about the prison. Intrigued by the concept, he paid the University to stay in the prison!

The Old Aula, an ornate, neo-Classical hall used for graduations and events, can be accessed via the University Museum/Student Prison – ask the staff for directions.

Kurpfälzisches Museum (Museum of the Palatinate)

For those interested in art and archaeology, the Kurpfälzisches Museum showcases Heidelberg’s cultural heritage, from Roman artifacts to paintings by 19th-century masters. It’s a compact but rewarding stop for history lovers.

Friedrich Ebert Museum

Another museum that’s worth a visit is the Friedrich Ebert House Museum. Born in Heidelberg, Friedrich Ebert became the first President of Germany (1919-1925). The museum and house (free entrance) offer fascinating insights into Germany’s history in this period.

Heidelberger Studentenkuss

Our last stop on this Heidelberg Old Town walking tour is the Heidelberger Studentenkuss store. Learn the story behind these world-famous chocolates and take some home with you.

Walking tours

There are also numerous guided walking tours of the Old Town to choose from, such as this 1.5 hour tour or this Night Watchman tour. Heidelberg, a member of the Rainbow Cities network, also offers a walking tour focused on the city’s LGBTQ+ history.

Philosopher’s Walk

For the best views of Heidelberg, cross the Old Bridge and follow the Schlangenweg, a steep, winding cobblestone path that snakes up the hillside to the Philosopher’s Walk. Along the way, take a moment to pause, catch your breath and soak in the breathtaking panorama of the Old Town and castle. I recommend making the climb just before sunset, when the warm evening light casts a rosy glow over the rooftops and bathes the castle in shades of pink.

You can also explore the Philosopher’s Walk and its stunning views on a Segway tour that starts in the Old Town.

Heidelberg Castle attractions

Perched dramatically above the Old Town, Heidelberg Castle is the city’s most famous landmark. The castle’s mix of Gothic and Renaissance architecture tells a story of both grandeur and ruin.

Take the funicular railway from the Heidelberg Bergbahn station up to the castle. I recommend purchasing the Panorama ticket that includes the historic funicular to Königstuhl, a 567m-high mountain.

At the Castle, look out for the Great Wine Barrel (one of the world’s largest), the partially destroyed Herb Tower and enjoy the views from the castle terrace. I also recommend visiting the fascinating Pharmacy Museum. You can also opt to join a 2-hour skip-the-line guided tour of Heidelberg Castle.

If you have time, wander through the castle gardens for a serene escape and take in the gorgeous view from the Scheffel terrace.

Königstuhl (King’s Seat)

With your Panorama ticket, continue from the castle station up to the Molkenkur station. From the station, it’s a short walk to the Königstuhl funicular, a historic funicular that has been operating since 1907. The rickety ride is an experience in itself! 

At an altitude of 567m, Königstuhl is often cooler than in the Old Town so I recommend bringing an extra sweater. If you’re up for a hike, head to the Via Naturae path (there are two trails: 3.5km and 8km) that winds its way through the forest. For a meal, check out Berggasthof, a hotel/restaurant that serves delicious local fare (reservations recommended). 

Neckar river cruise

A river cruise is one of the most relaxing ways to appreciate Heidelberg and its surroundings. Some boats travel up the Neckar Valley, passing through charming villages and lush vineyards. Sunset cruises are especially romantic, with the castle glowing in the fading light.

Where to eat in Heidelberg

A few doors down from the Studentenkuss store is the terrific Schnookeloch hotel/restaurant (Haspelgasse 8). This typical German restaurant serves hearty, local dishes that are big in size and flavour!

For a cosy, fine-dining experience, I recommend Gasthaus Backmulde (Schiffgasse 11). The food and service are top-notch, and they also have an extensive wine list.

How to get to Heidelberg

Heidelberg is well-connected by road and rail. There are frequent direct train services, or via Mannheim, from major German cities such as Cologne, Frankfurt and Munich. Note that the Heidelberg Hauptbahnhof (central station) is located about 20 minutes by bus from the Old Town – there are numerous services every hour. Heidelberg is also a popular stop for Rhine River cruise ships which moor in nearby Mannheim.

Read more about other Historic Cities of Germany

Note: my visit to Heidelberg was made possible in partnership with Historic Highlights of Germany. As always, all views expressed above are mine, and mine only.