My Guide to Nosy Be, Madagascar – Wild Junket

Last Updated on September 28, 2026

From swimming with sea turtles to mingling with wild lemurs, here’s my ultimate Nosy Be travel guide: the best things to do, island day trips, where to stay and practical tips.

After a week of dusty roads, dramatic sunsets backdropped by baobab trees and climbling stone forests in Western Madagascar, we landed in Nosy Be and it felt like we’d arrived in a different country. The inviting waters of the Indian Ocean, ylang-ylang fields perfuming the air, and tuktuks buzzing along palm-lined roads all reminded me more of Southeast Asia than Africa.

Nosy Be (pronounced noo-see bay, meaning “Big Island” in Malagasy) is Madagascar’s most popular beach destination, but make no mistake, it’s not the crowded tourist magnet you’d imagine. It has retained an authentic feel and is the gateway to an archipelago of wild, pristine islands – you can swim with giant sea turtles off Nosy Sakatia, spot black lemurs on Nosy Komba, and walk across the sandbar of Nosy Iranja, my absolute favorite island in all of Madagascar.

We spent a week exploring Nosy Be and its neighbors as a family and had a blast! The island itself is wonderful to explore, but there are so many tiny castaway islands surrounding it that you can easily spend a week or more here and not run out of things to do. We didn’t hire a guide or driver – it’s one of the easiest places to travel independently in Madagascar, and I’ve put everything we learned into this guide.

My Nosy Be Travel Guide

Why Visit Nosy Be

If Western Madagascar is the raw, rugged adventure, Nosy Be is where Madagascar shows its softer, tropical side. But it’s not a polished resort island. Leave your hotel and you’ll still find zebu carts on the road, villages without electricity and a pace of life that runs on mora mora (slowly, slowly). Wild lemurs still live in the jungles dotted around the island, and villagers live off their rice paddies and banana plantations.

For travelers, there’s plenty to do on and near Nosy Be. In a single week, you can snorkel with sea turtles, meet black lemurs in the forest, wander through ylang-ylang plantations, visit local markets and watch the sunset over crater lakes. It’s also a great finale to a Madagascar trip. After the long drives on the mainland, it’s the perfect place to slow down.

Where is Nosy Be?

Nosy Be is an island off the northwest coast of Madagascar, in the Mozambique Channel. It’s about 8km off the mainland and roughly 22km across. The island’s main town is Hell-Ville (officially Andoany), named after a French admiral, Admiral de Hell, not the weather!

Nosy Be is surrounded by smaller islands collectively known as the Nosy Be archipelago: Nosy Komba, Nosy Tanikely, Nosy Sakatia, Nosy Iranja, the Mitsio archipelago and more.

Quick facts about Nosy Be:

• Nickname: The Scented Isle (l’Île aux Parfums), thanks to its ylang-ylang, vanilla and pepper plantations
• Main town: Hell-Ville (Andoany)
• Main beach areas: Ambatoloaka, Madirokely, Ambondrona and Andilana
• Currency: Malagasy Ariary (MGA)
• Languages: Malagasy and French. English is spoken at most tourist hotels
• Airport: Fascene International Airport (NOS)

How to Get to Nosy Be

By Air

Most visitors fly into Fascene International Airport (NOS), around 20 minutes’ drive from Hell-Ville. It’s one of the few airports in Madagascar with direct international flights, so you don’t have to go through Antananarivo.

International flights to Nosy Be:

• Airlink: Johannesburg, the easiest option from Southern Africa (we lived in Cape Town at the time) 
• Ethiopian Airlines: Addis Ababa, with connections across Europe, Asia and the Middle East
• Neos: Seasonal flights from Milan, Rome and Verona. This is why you’ll hear so much Italian on the island!
• Air Austral: Réunion
• EWA Air: Mayotte

Domestic flights: Madagascar Airlines (formerly Air Madagascar) flies to Nosy Be from Antananarivo, as well as Antsiranana (Diego Suarez) and Mahajanga. We flew in from Morondava via Antananarivo. Be warned that domestic flights are expensive and notorious for delays and schedule changes, so build in buffer days.

Search for flights to Nosy Be here ✈️

By Land and Sea

If you’re traveling overland from Diego Suarez or Ambanja, you can take a ferry or speedboat from Ankify on the mainland to Hell-Ville. The crossing is short, but I’d only go for this if you’re already road-tripping through Northern Madagascar and have plenty of time.

Visa for Madagascar

Most nationalities need a visa for Madagascar, which you can get as an e-visa online before you go. Since February 2026, fees are €30 for up to 15 days, €35 for up to 30 days, €40 for up to 60 days and €50 for up to 90 days. Always check the official e-visa portal before you travel, as the rules change often.

Best Time to Visit Nosy Be

The best time to visit Nosy Be is from April to November, during the dry season. Expect sunny days, calm seas and temperatures around 25–30°C. We visited in October and the weather was perfect: clear skies and warm seas.

If you’re a scuba diver, April to December is also the best time to go diving as the seas are calmer and visibility is high. January to March brings warm water but higher rainfall and cyclone risk. From June to July, the water can be slightly chilly so make sure to book with dive operators that provide wetsuits.

NOTE: Be sure to check the latest travel advice and updates though. We traveled Madagascar in October 2025 during the military coup that ousted President Andry Rajoelina, as protests and curfews spread nationwide, but Nosy Be felt a world away from it all and we weren’t affected.

• April–June: Lush and green after the rains, fewer crowds
• July–August: Peak season with European summer holidaymakers, so book ahead. Humpback whales pass through from around July.
• September–December: Whale shark season, peaking around September to November. Sea conditions are usually excellent.
• January–March: Rainy and cyclone season. Some lodges close and boat trips can be cancelled.

How Long to Spend in Nosy Be

I recommend at least 5–7 days in Nosy Be. That gives you enough time for two or three island day trips, a day exploring Nosy Be itself and some well-deserved beach time. Boat trips are weather-dependent, so having extra days means you won’t miss Nosy Iranja if the sea is choppy.

If you want to split your stay between two islands (which I highly recommend), spend 4 nights on Nosy Be and 3 nights on Nosy Komba like we did. Nosy Komba was maybe too quiet for us, but we did day trips from there too.

How to Get Around Nosy Be

By Tuktuk

Tuktuks (called bajaj locally) are by far the best way to get around Nosy Be. They’re everywhere: waiting outside hotels, buzzing along the main road and lined up in Hell-Ville. We didn’t hire a driver or guide for our week on Nosy Be. We just hired tuktuks outside our hotel to take us wherever we wanted to go.

A few tips for hiring tuktuks:

• Agree on the price before you get in. There are no meters.
• Short hops within Hell-Ville or between beaches cost no more than 10euros.
• Hire a tuktuk for half a day or a full day to do a loop of the island’s sights. Our driver charged us around 30euros for a half-day tour around Nosy Be, including waiting time at each stop. This is the cheapest and most fun way to see the island!
• Carry small notes, as drivers rarely have change.
• Many drivers speak basic French and a little English. Having your destinations written down helps.

By Taxi or Private Driver

Taxis (often old Renault 4s or small sedans) are available for airport transfers and longer trips. Your hotel can arrange an airport transfer, usually for around 40euros..

By Scooter or Quad

You can rent scooters and quads in Ambatoloaka. Roads on the main loop are paved but full of potholes, zebu and kids walking to school, so I’d only recommend this for confident riders.

By Boat

To reach the neighboring islands, you’ll need to go by boat, either on an organized day trip or a private boat transfer. Most boats leave from the beaches at Ambatoloaka, Madirokely or Andilana, or from the port in Hell-Ville. Note that most boats don’t have a roof, so expect sun and spray! Search for boat tours here.

Best Things to Do on Nosy Be

1. Explore the Island by Tuktuk

One of our favorite days on Nosy Be was simply hiring a tuktuk and doing a loop of the island. You pass through ylang-ylang and sugarcane plantations, fishing villages, and roadside stalls selling pineapples and grilled corn. You’ll see kids waving at you as you drive past.

Our tuktuk loop: Hell-Ville market → Lemuria Land and ylang-ylang distillery → Mont Passot for sunset. We hired a tuktuk for half a day and paid 30 euros for him to bring us to various spots and wait there.

2. Visit the Central Market in Hell-Ville

The central market in Hell-Ville (Bazary Be) is the beating heart of the island’s capital, and one of the best places to see everyday Malagasy life. It’s loud, busy and full of color.

Inside you’ll find mountains of tropical fruit, piles of dried fish, bundles of fresh herbs, and stalls selling vanilla pods, wild pepper, cinnamon and cloves. Nosy Be is famous for its spices, and the prices here are a fraction of what you’d pay back home. Look out for bottles of rhum arrangé, local rum infused with vanilla, ginger, lychee or coconut.

This was where Kaleya tried her first jackfruit and she was immediately hooked! We bought an entire jackfruit back and ate it all up in a day. After the market, we also wandered along Hell-Ville’s main street, lined with crumbling French colonial buildings, cafés and little boutiques. It’s also a good place to use the ATM and pick up supplies.

Tip: Go in the morning, when the market is at its busiest and the fish and produce are freshest. Keep an eye on your belongings in the crowds.

3. Learn How Ylang-Ylang Oil is Made at the Distillery

You can’t visit Nosy Be without understanding why it’s called “The Scented Isle,” and the best place to do this is at the sprawling ylang-ylang plantations right next to Lemuria Land.

Ylang-ylang is a tropical tree with droopy, star-shaped yellow flowers, and its essential oil is a key ingredient in some of the world’s most famous perfumes (yes, including Chanel No. 5). The flowers are picked by hand early in the morning, when their scent is strongest, then steam-distilled in huge copper stills.

On a tour of the ylang-ylang distillery, you’ll walk through a century-old ylang-ylang grove, watch the distillation process up close and learn how many kilos of flowers it takes to make just one liter of oil. There’s also a small rum distillery with tastings for the grown-ups.

4. Meet Lemurs, Tortoises and Chameleons at Lemuria Land

Right next to the distillery is Lemuria Land, which was a huge hit with Kaleya. The animals are thriving in a protected, semi-wild environment, and many aren’t afraid to get up close.

Here you can see several lemur species, including black lemurs (the males are jet-black and the females are russet-brown) and ring-tailed lemurs. The local guide at Lemuria brought some bananas and got the Black Lemur so excited it stood perched on Kaleya’s shoulders to eat the bananas. 

You’ll also find giant tortoises (one of them is said to be around 200 years old!), baby crocodiles, and plenty of colorful chameleons and geckos.

5. Watch the Sunset from Mont Passot

At 329m, Mont Passot is the highest point on Nosy Be, and the viewpoint at the top is one of the best places on the island to watch the sunset. From the top, you get 360-degree views over the island’s volcanic crater lakes (which are sacred to locals and said to be home to crocodiles) and out to the surrounding islands.

The road to the top is bumpy but doable by tuktuk. There are usually a few stalls selling drinks and souvenirs at the summit. Bring a flashlight or headlamp for the ride back down, since it gets dark very quickly after sunset.

6. Hike Through Lokobe National Park

On the southeast tip of Nosy Be, Lokobe National Park protects the island’s last remaining patch of primary rainforest. It’s home to black lemurs, the nocturnal sportive lemur, Malagasy tree boas and loads of chameleons.

Getting there is half the adventure: you take a traditional wooden pirogue from the village of Ambatozavavy, paddling for about an hour along the coast and through the mangroves to Ampasipohy village, the park’s main entry point. From there, a local guide leads you on a 2–3 hour walk through the forest, often followed by lunch in the village.

• Entrance fee: 55,000 Ar for adults, 25,000 Ar for children, plus a guide fee
• Best for: Families with kids who are happy to walk in the heat

7. Visit the Sacred Tree of Mahatsinjo

This giant banyan tree near the village of Mahatsinjo is said to have been planted in 1836 by a queen of the Sakalava people. Its sprawling aerial roots now cover an enormous area. It’s still a sacred site where locals come to make offerings, so you’ll need to cover your shoulders and knees (sarongs are provided at the entrance) and take off your shoes. A small entrance fee goes to the community. It’s an easy stop on a tuktuk loop of the island.

8. Relax on Andilana Beach

Nosy Be’s beaches aren’t all postcard-perfect, but Andilana Beach on the northwest coast is the island’s best. Its long stretch of white sand and calm, clear water are ideal for swimming, especially for kids. It’s also a great sunset spot. On weekends, local families come to picnic here, which makes for a lovely atmosphere.

Other beach areas:

• Ambatoloaka: The island’s liveliest beach village, with bars, restaurants, dive shops and boat operators. A bit built-up but convenient.
• Madirokely: Right next to Ambatoloaka but quieter, with lots of mid-range hotels.
• Ambondrona: A quieter, more laid-back stretch with palm trees and a few small hotels.

Best Day Trips from Nosy Be

The real magic of Nosy Be lies in its surrounding islands. Here are the ones we visited, and why each one is worth your time.

Nosy Iranja: The Most Beautiful Island in Madagascar

If you only do one day trip from Nosy Be, make it Nosy Iranja. Often voted one of the most beautiful islands in the world, Nosy Iranja is actually two islands connected by a dazzling 1.5km strip of white sand. This was the absolute highlight of our trip.

At low tide, the sandbar emerges from the sea and you can walk from one island to the other, with turquoise water lapping on both sides. It was, hands down, the most stunning place we visited in all of Madagascar: pristine, remote and completely unspoiled.

The larger island, Nosy Iranja Be, has a small fishing village and a hilltop lighthouse with awe-inspiring views of the coast. The smaller island, Nosy Iranja Kely, is a protected nesting site for hawksbill and green sea turtles, which lay their eggs on the beach between roughly May and October.

Nosy Iranja practical info:

• Boat time: About 1.5 hours each way from Nosy Be (longer if the sea is rough)
• Price: Group day trips start from around €65 per adult (about €40 for children), usually including the boat, lunch, snorkeling gear and a guide
• Tip: Check the tide times. The sandbar disappears at high tide, so good operators time the trip for low tide.
• Tip: Bring plenty of sunscreen and a hat. There’s very little shade on the sandbar.
• Want more time? You can stay overnight at the lodge on the island, or camp.

Nosy Sakatia: Swim with Giant Sea Turtles

Just off the west coast of Nosy Be, the small island of Nosy Sakatia is where we had one of the most unforgettable wildlife encounters of our trip. The seagrass beds here attract giant green sea turtles. We aren’t talking about one or two turtles. We are talking about massive, ancient creatures grazing in water that is only waist-deep.

Because the water is so shallow and calm, this is the perfect snorkeling trip for kids and nervous swimmers. Kaleya wasn’t afraid at all and had the best time snorkeling with turtles here. Beyond the turtles, Nosy Sakatia has a small village (Antanambe), ylang-ylang plantations and a few groups of black lemurs in the forest.

Nosy Sakatia practical info:

• Boat time: About 15 minutes from Andilana or the west coast of Nosy Be
• Tip: Keep a respectful distance from the turtles. Don’t touch or chase them.
• Where to stay: Sakatia Lodge, if you want to stay on the island

Nosy Komba: The Island of Lemurs

A short boat ride from Nosy Be, Nosy Komba (meaning “Lemur Island”) is a steep, forested volcanic island famous for its habituated black lemurs. In the village of Ampangorina, a small community-run lemur park lets you see them up close.  You’ll also find chameleons, boas and tortoises.

We didn’t just visit Nosy Komba on a day trip; we stayed here for 3 nights. Manja Kely Lodge, with beautiful, spacious wooden bungalows perched on the hills of Nosy Komba, was a huge contrast to our resort on Nosy Be. There are no roads on this island, you need a boat to get from one end to the other, but the star-lit skies and calm silence truly made us feel like we were in paradise.

Nosy Komba practical info:

• Boat time: About 20–30 minutes from Nosy Be
• How to get there: Arrange a boat transfer with your hotel
• Combine with: Nosy Tanikely. Most day trips visit both islands.

Nosy Tanikely: Snorkeling in a Marine National Park

Tiny Nosy Tanikely is a protected marine national park, and it has some of the best and easiest snorkeling in the archipelago. You can walk straight in from the beach and within minutes you’ll be swimming among clownfish, parrotfish, sea turtles and colorful coral in water no deeper than about 6m.

The calmer southern side is best for beginners. Watch out for long-spined sea urchins on some parts of the reef. You can also walk around the whole island in about 30 minutes and climb up to the lighthouse for views.

Nosy Tanikely practical info:

• Park fee: 20,000 Ar per person
• Boat time: About 30 minutes from Nosy Be or Nosy Komba
• Tip: Go early, before the day-trip boats arrive.

Swim with Whale Sharks

From around September to December, gentle whale sharks gather in the waters around Nosy Be, making it one of the best places in the world to swim with them. Boats head out in the morning to look for them, and when one is spotted, you slip into the water to snorkel alongside the world’s biggest fish. Alberto actually saw a whale shark while scuba diving, so if you’re planning to dive, you might just get a chance to see them without spending on a whale shark snorkel tour.

Tip: Choose an operator that follows responsible guidelines: no touching, a limited number of swimmers in the water and keeping a distance. Sightings are never guaranteed.

Other Islands to Consider

• Nosy Mitsio: A remote archipelago north of Nosy Be with basalt columns, excellent diving and the ultra-luxurious Constance Tsarabanjina.
• Russian Bay (Baie des Russes): A secluded bay on the mainland, popular for liveaboard boat trips and diving.

How to Book Day Trips in Nosy Be

You’ll be approached by boat operators on every beach, and there are dozens of tour companies on the island. Prices and quality vary hugely, so don’t just go with the cheapest option. Ask about life jackets, what’s included (lunch, snorkel gear, park fees) and the size of the boat.

We booked our day trips to the neighboring islands through MadaAssist. I simply sent them a WhatsApp message with what I’m interested in and they were very responsive, and immediately sent me a few options. Prices were competitive and I paid through an online system which made it very easy and convenient. Highly recommend them!

Tip: Book Nosy Iranja early in your stay, so you have spare days to reschedule if the weather turns.

Where to Stay in Nosy Be

Nosy Be

• Luxury: Ravintsara Wellness Hotel. Tucked into five hectares of tropical gardens on the west coast facing Nosy Sakatia, this is Nosy Be’s loveliest splurge. Think individual bungalows scattered among ponds and palms, several pools, a proper spa and some of the best sunsets on the island. Check rates here.
• Midrange: Loharano Lodge. After spending a week in Western Madagascar, we had a bit of a culture shock checking into this place, where Italian and French were spoken and most people seemed to be on summer vacation. We loved their tiered pools, proximity to the beach and excellent food. Check rates here.
• Budget: Le Moya Beach. A simple, friendly beachfront spot with bungalows, a pool and a good little restaurant, on a quiet stretch of sand away from the crowds of Ambatoloaka. It’s the kind of place where you can eat fresh fish with your toes in the sand without paying resort prices. Check rates here.

Nosy Komba

• Midrange: Manja Kely Lodge. With beautiful, spacious wooden bungalows perched on the hills of Nosy Komba, this lodge is so quiet, peaceful and private. We loved waking up to views of the ocean right from our bed. Check rates here.
• Luxury: Tsara Komba Lodge. Elegant eco-lodge with bungalows overlooking a private beach. Check rates here.

Tip: Where you stay on Nosy Be makes a big difference. Ambatoloaka and Madirokely are convenient and lively; Andilana and Ambondrona are quieter and better for families.

What to Eat in Nosy Be

Nosy Be is a seafood lover’s dream. Thanks to its French and Italian influence, you’ll also find excellent pizza, pasta and crêpes alongside Malagasy food.

• Fresh seafood: Grilled fish, prawns, calamari and lobster, often cooked in coconut sauce or with local green peppercorns
• Zebu: Beef, often served as steak or cooked with vanilla or coconut
• Romazava: Madagascar’s national dish, a meat and leafy green stew
• Mine sao: Mild stir-fried noodles similar to chow mein, a winner with kids
• Mofo: Fried dough and doughnuts from street vendors
• Tropical fruit: Mangoes, lychees, pineapples and the sweetest little bananas
• Rhum arrangé: Local rum infused with fruit and spices (for the grown-ups!)

Tip: Service is mora mora. Waiting 90 minutes for a meal is not unusual, so bring card games for the kids.

Nosy Be with Kids

Nosy Be is the most family-friendly part of Madagascar. While the long drives of Western Madagascar are best for kids aged 8 and up, the Nosy Be archipelago works even for toddlers, thanks to its warm, calm waters and short boat rides.

Kaleya’s highlights were meeting the lemurs at Lemuria Land, snorkeling with turtles at Nosy Sakatia and walking the sandbar at Nosy Iranja. Read more details in my guide to traveling Madagascar with kids.

Tips for visiting Nosy Be with kids:

• Choose shallow snorkeling spots like Nosy Sakatia and the southern side of Nosy Tanikely for young kids.
• Bring kids’ life jackets or ask for child-sized ones, as many boats only carry adult sizes.
• Protect them from the sun: boats rarely have shade, so pack UV rash guards and hats.
• Pick a hotel with a pool, as some beaches have seagrass and shallow tides.
• Prepare them for the poverty they’ll see in villages, and don’t give sweets or money to children. Bring school supplies to donate through schools or your lodge instead.

Safety and Health in Nosy Be

Nosy Be is generally safe for tourists, and we felt comfortable exploring by tuktuk. Petty theft does happen, especially in Hell-Ville and on busy beaches, so keep valuables out of sight and avoid walking alone on empty beaches at night.

We traveled during the October 2025 political unrest in Madagascar but weren’t affected, though we have friends who were stuck due to the nationwide curfew. Nosy Be felt a world away from the capital. Always check your government’s travel advice before you go.

Health tips:

• Malaria is present on Nosy Be. Talk to a travel clinic about prophylaxis, and use repellent and mosquito nets, especially at dawn and dusk.
• Drink bottled or filtered water only.
• Avoid swimming in freshwater lakes and rivers because of bilharzia (and crocodiles!).
• Medical facilities are basic. Serious cases need evacuation, so get good travel insurance.

Travel insurance: We use SafetyWing’s Nomad Insurance, which includes one child under 10 free per adult. 

Money and Cost of Travel in Nosy Be

The local currency is the Malagasy Ariary (Ar or MGA). The current rate is roughly 5,000 Ar to €1.

• ATMs are available in Hell-Ville and some beach areas, but they’re not always reliable. Bring some euros or US dollars in cash as backup.
• Cards are accepted at most mid-range and upmarket hotels, but you’ll need cash for tuktuks, markets, park fees and small restaurants.
• Nosy Be is more expensive than mainland Madagascar, especially for hotels and boat trips.

Typical costs in Nosy Be:

• Lemuria Land entrance: around 45,000 Ar
• Nosy Tanikely park fee: 20,000 Ar
• Lokobe National Park: 55,000 Ar (adults), 25,000 Ar (kids)
• Nosy Iranja day trip: from €65 per adult
• Lunch at a local restaurant: $4–6
• Family dinner at a tourist restaurant: $30–40
• Midrange hotel: $100–150 per night

Language and Internet

Malagasy and French are the official languages. Nosy Be is the easiest place in Madagascar for English speakers, since most hotel and tour staff speak some English, but a few words of French or Malagasy go a long way. Salama (hello) and misaotra (thank you) always earn a smile.

Wi-Fi is available at most hotels but can be slow. We used an Airalo eSIM for mobile data, which worked well on Nosy Be itself but patchily on the smaller islands. 

Check out Airalo’s eSIMs for Madagascar 📲

What to Pack for Nosy Be

7-Day Nosy Be Itinerary

• Day 1: Arrive at Fascene Airport, check in and relax on the beach
• Day 2: Tuktuk loop: Hell-Ville market, Lemuria Land and ylang-ylang distillery, sunset at Mont Passot
• Day 3: Day trip to Nosy Iranja
• Day 4: Snorkel with turtles at Nosy Sakatia, afternoon on Andilana Beach
• Day 5: Transfer to Nosy Komba, visit the lemurs at Ampangorina
• Day 6: Snorkeling at Nosy Tanikely (or whale shark trip, in season)
• Day 7: Morning in Lokobe National Park or a lazy beach day, then depart

Practical Tips for Visiting Nosy Be

• Embrace mora mora. Boats leave late, meals take ages and plans change. Relax, you’re on island time.
• Always negotiate tuktuk prices before getting in.
• Build buffer days for weather and domestic flight delays.
• Check tide times for Nosy Iranja and snorkeling trips.
• Bring small notes. Change is hard to come by.
• Respect sacred sites and fady (local taboos). Ask your guide what’s allowed.
• Don’t buy products made from turtle shell, coral or endangered wood.
• Book accommodation early for July, August and whale shark season.

Nosy Be FAQ

Enjoy Your Trip to Nosy Be!

Nosy Be was the perfect ending to our Madagascar adventure: a place to slow down and swim with turtles, after the wild roads of the west. And Nosy Iranja? I’m still dreaming about that sandbar. Mora mora, and enjoy every moment!

Further reading on Madagascar:

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