How to Spend One Week in Bhutan on a Sightseeing and Spirituality Itinerary

It was in 2018 that I first found myself eagerly researching online about the Himalayan kingdom of Bhutan, a nation of just under 800,000 people landlocked between India and Tibet, an autonomous region of China. In 2024, I finally realized this long-held dream of visiting Bhutan on a recent trip with Druk Asia to find that this country of vastly underrated landscapes, incredibly rich traditions, ancient temples and monasteries, a deep-rooted culture, and kind warm-hearted people held the power to toss several life-changing lessons and epiphanic moments my way, when I least expected, and perhaps most needed them. 

My itinerary with Druk Asia included a Neykor trip, or a spiritual journey with spiritual teacher, His Eminence Khedrupchen Rinpoche. On this trip I got to experience the type of moments that compelled me to first be courageous and venture out into the world as a solo traveler over a decade ago and made me fall in love with the state of journeying. 

Let me confirm what you might have heard about Bhutan: Bhutan is a country of unique experiences that isn’t comparable to any other place in Asia, or even the world. It’s a feeling that’s hard to put into words because Bhutan makes you feel a certain way – seen, alive, welcomed, accepted, and most beautifully, connected. While there are some incredible things to do in Bhutan, a Bhutan trip is about so much more than checking activities and places off some list. 

If you’re planning a trip to Bhutan, looking for practical inspiration and Bhutan travel tips, curious about travel costs in Bhutan, and wondering what a 7-day Bhutan itinerary looks like, I hope you find this post useful and are inspired to visit Bhutan. 

Additionally, here are some things you should know before visiting Bhutan. 

7-Day Bhutan Itinerary

Day 1: Arrival in Paro and Exploring Thimphu

Arriving at Paro International Airport

We flew to Paro International Airport in Bhutan from Delhi on Drukair Royal Bhutan Airlines, arriving just after 6 am. By the time we completed the formalities, as Indian travelers who chose to get the permit and pay the SDF on arrival, it was around 7 am. I activated my e-sim as soon as we landed in Bhutan and had no problems staying connected throughout my Bhutan trip.

While modern, the building of Paro International Airport boasts beautiful traditional details on the windows, ornate columns by the entrances, and designs adorning the roof. Inside, the space feels like a huge art gallery with artworks from Bhutanese artists supported by the Voluntary Artists’ Studio of Bhutan (VAST), lush plants, beautiful corners, all complemented by comfortable seating areas with luxurious sofas and chairs in the departures hall. 

Paro International Airport, while small, is one of the prettiest, most charming airports I’ve seen in all my travels. They even beautified the conveyor belts so visitors have something pretty to look at while they wait for their bags. Outside, as we were leaving, I wanted to take more photos of the beautiful sculptures surrounded by well-maintained gardens.  

Welcome by Druk Asia 

As soon as we stepped out into the noticeably fresh air of Bhutan, we were greeted by our Druk Asia guide Yuden Tenzin, who held a placard with our names on it, and our driver. Yuden welcomed us with a white scarf each, the traditional way. Before we knew it, we were comfortably seated in a beautiful brown Hyundai Creta – our ride for the rest of the trip – with him telling us about the way of life in Bhutan. 

Transfer to Thimphu 

(1.5-hour drive)

Driving past verdant farmlands, springtime blooms, and villages outside our windows, Ankit and I dozed off, the exhaustion of the night finally having caught up with us.

When we woke up roughly after an hour, we’d arrived in Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan. Welcomed with a pot of tea, we checked into our hotel, rested for a few hours, and were soon ready to begin exploring the city.

Places to Visit in Thimphu

Thimphu is the capital of Bhutan and the only city in the country (the rest are towns), home to over 100,000 people (144,197 estimated in 2024). As the capital, Thimphu is home to Dechencholing Palace, the official residence of the King of Bhutan, the National Assembly, and important museums that showcase the country’s rich traditions and culture.

Learn about Bhutanese weaving at the Royal Textile Academy

Our first stop was the Royal Textile Academy, a non- government, non -profit museum and educational center established by Her Majesty Gyalyum (Queen Mother) Sangay Choden Wangchuck to preserve the art of Bhutanese weaving. While the center is also meant as an educational institution for those looking to learn this art, for visitors, a walk through its exhibition spaces offers the chance to admire the various kinds of textile weaves in the country displayed in a permanent exhibition as well as temporary exhibitions on special themes.

As we admired the jewel tones and masterful weaving in textiles that seemed like they were fit to clothe royals, our guide explained how the different types of weaving came from different parts of the country and told a story of the time when the piece was created and of the skill of the weaver. From him, we learned about the textiles that were used to create the kira and gho, the traditional clothing that is still worn by the Bhutanese on formal occasions, celebrations, festivals, official visits, and to temples and monasteries. In a time of what feels like an epidemic of society’s obsession with mass-produced fast fashion, it was a revelation to learn about the Bhutanese people’s pride in the art of weaving and their traditional clothing.    

See Bhutan’s national animal at the Takin Enclosure

I didn’t know what to expect when our Druk Asia guide Yuden told us that the takin, Bhutan’s national animal, was the kind of beast we’d never seen before. Described as a beast with “the body of a goat and the head of a cow” which was, as legend has it, created by the saint Lama Drukpa Kunley, also called the Divine Madman, the takin had a stocky fur-covered body and curved horns. I certainly had never seen one before. 

Besides the enclosure, takin are also found in the mountains and high passes of Bhutan and Nepal. We walked on designated paths around the enclosure for around 30 minutes watching the takin graze on vegetation, laze around, or gather in small groups.

Experience traditional life at the Simply Bhutan Living Museum

A visit to the Simply Bhutan Living Museum felt like we’d stepped into village life of days past. Greeted with a short of local arra (rice spirit), we were led by a culture guide through an exhibition of village scenes that sparked our imaginations, such as a building site where two men built a house out of rammed earth as they sang and danced to keep their spirits up, verandahs where we tried to play traditional musical instruments as red chilies hung to dry from strings above us, a rustic kitchen stocked with pots and pans and traditional tools of all manner, and walls adorned with colorful masks worn by mask dancers during festivals. 

We sampled butter tea, then shook a leg with the graceful dancers as they taught us the steps to their traditional dance. As I looked at the faces of the other tourists dancing in a circle, I noticed smiles all around – what is it about dancing that brings out our inner child? Afterwards, we tried our hand at archery, Bhutan’s national sport.  

Feel the serenity at Buddha Point

As soon as we walked through the gates at Buddha Point at Kuenselphodrang Nature Park, we were at once captivated by the awe-inspiring sight of the Vajra Throne Buddha, a 51.5−metre-tall bronze statue of Buddha Dordenma. One of the largest statues of the Buddha in the world, it symbolizes indestructibility and is believed to emanate peace and happiness to the world. 

The statue was built on the ruins of a former palace, to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the fourth King Jigme Singye Wangchuck and fulfill two ancient prophecies from the 8th and 12th century which stated that a giant Buddha statue would be built in the region for the peace and happiness of the world. You can walk into the statue where you’ll find 125,000 smaller Buddha statues – 25,000 12-inch statues and 100,000 8-inch statues. Photography is not permitted inside.

There was something I can’t quite explain about how the eyes of the golden statue seem to look right at you, and how, if you’re lucky, you might catch that special moment when the sunlight radiates from clouds behind the statue, as if it were some kind of divine light, reminding you of your inconsequentiality.

Stroll around Thimphu Town

Despite being a modern city, Thimphu’s city center feels more like a town. We strolled around town noticing that even newer constructions have the traditional style and shape of windows – something that is required by law in Bhutan. The center is full of cafes, restaurants, shops, and bars, and we picked up a few souvenirs.

Where to Stay in Thimphu

We stayed at The Capital Hotel Thimphu, a luxurious boutique hotel with comfortable and modern rooms. Our spacious 425 sqft Premium Studio had floor-to-ceiling windows and an outdoor terrace which offered lovely views of Thimphu. 

The studio featured a spacious living area, a fully equipped modern kitchenette, and a workspace. There was a 55-inch LED Smart TV and complimentary and fast Wi-Fi. The hotel restaurant served delicious home cooked style Indian food (that we loved) and a great breakfast. The service was polite and friendly and the kind staff also helped us wear the kira and gho, the traditional dress for women and men respectively on our second day.

Day 2: Thimphu to Gangtey

Wearing the Traditional Dress

On our second day, I was excited to find that our guide Yuden had got us each a set of traditional clothing. The previous day while walking around Thimphu, I’d noticed how regal the traditional dress looked on both men and women. So, without hesitation and with the kind help of the staff at our hotel who helped us to put them on correctly and draped them for us, we set off on our second day in Bhutan, dressed in Bhutanese attire.

I wore the kira, an ankle-length skirt wrapped around the body and fastened at the waist with a cloth belt. It reminded me of a sari, but only somewhat. On top, I wore a long-sleeved blouse called wonju with a short jacket called toego. My kira was a pretty striped maroon skirt, while the wonju was cream-colored with a subtle design. With the sleeves of the blouse folded out of those of the maroon toego, my kira looked absolutely elegant, far more than my jeans and tops. 

Ankit wore a knee-length robe-like dress called the gho secured at the waist by a cloth belt called kera. It reminded me of the Scottish kilt. With the belt secured tightly, the upper half of the gho became what is often called “the world’s biggest pocket” in Bhutan, which was great because then Ankit got to pay me back for all the times he’s handed me water bottles and his wallet and what not to fit into my tiny purse. Underneath he wore a short-sleeved t-shirt, shorts, and knee-high socks that kept him warm all day.  

To know more about Bhutan’s traditional dress, here’s a post about the culture and other things to know before you visit Bhutan.

Pay Your Respects at Dochu La Pass

To get to the Phobjikha Valley from Thimphu, we arrived at Dochu La Pass, located at 3,140 m above sea level. We took around thirty minutes to visit the Druk Wangyal Chortens, which are 108 memorial stupas and chortens that were built in honour of Bhutanese soldiers who lost their lives while battling Bodo militants from India. 

For many Bhutanese and Buddhists, this is a place of worship, something that is easy to forget with so many tourists visiting, so be mindful of your behaviour and keep it respectful. There are manmade caves built on a hill here for meditation. On a clear day, it’s possible to see several Himalayan peaks such as Gangkhar Puensum, the world’s highest unclimbed mountain.

Places to Visit in Gangtey

Visit Gangtey Goempa

Our second stop of the day was at Gangtey Goempa, a 17th-century monastery on a hill overlooking the Phobjikha Valley where black-necked cranes migrate to from the Tibetan plateau in winter. It was founded in 1613 by Gyalse Pema Thinlay, the grandson and reincarnation of Pema Thinley, a 15th-century “treasure seeker”  who had foreseen and predicted its establishment. It was here that we first met His Eminence Khedrupchen Rinpoche, who we were going to soon be traveling around Bhutan with for the next few days.   

Do the Gangtey Nature Trail 

The Gangtey Nature Trail in the beautiful glacial Phobjikha Valley was one of the highlights of our trip to Bhutan. We began this two-hour easy trek near Gangtey Goemba, setting off in our kira and gho, and walked through peaceful pine and bamboo forests and wildflower meadows, past potato farms, gurgling streams, grazing cows, and sublime rhododendron blooms. 

We walked past traditional village homes with wood-lined roofs where women in the windows waved back when I waved at them. Soon, we were at a viewpoint with sweeping panoramic views of Phobjikha Valley, a truly magical place with incredible energy. Afterwards, we crossed a wooden bridge over the Nake Chu and were picked up by our car to head towards our next stop. 

Visit the Black-Necked Crane Information Center 

In winter each year, a species of endangered black-necked cranes heads south for the glacial valley of Phobjikha from the Tibetan Plateau. This center houses photographs and exhibits that provide more information about the birds, landscape, and the history of conservation and protection work. There are birdwatching scopes to see them up close in the valley in winter. There are also two rescued cranes housed here and a souvenir shop.

Where To Stay in Gangtey

In Gangtey, we stayed at the Gangtey Tent Resort, a fantastic glamping resort with luxurious tents set in a location that offered breathtaking views of the Phobjikha Valley.

I’m not kidding when I say the in-room (or should I say in-tent) amenities were five-star worthy. Our tent was spacious and had two twin beds (with heating for the bed), heated floors, and a heater for the room, a living area with two comfortable lounge chairs and a coffee table, and a dressing table with a mirror. There was a small wardrobe with space to hang your clothes and it came with two plush bathrobes and slippers. An emergency flashlight was provided just in case of a power cut, which we did not experience during our stay. The bathroom was fitted with a rainshower and had amazing hot water. 

When we woke up the next day, we made some tea and enjoyed it on the terrace outside our tent while soaking in views of the misty valley below. The resort has a restaurant that offers meals including breakfast and a buffet style dinner. 

At the resort, we also participated in evening talks with His Eminence Khedrupchen Rinpoche who was leading the Neykor group. That evening we came away enlightened about the concept of the wheel of life in Buddhism.

Day 3: Phobjikha/Gangtey to Punakha

Get on the Road to Punakha

The next morning, after a leisurely tea with dreamy views of Phobjikha Valley and breakfast at the Gangtey Tent Resort, we got on the road to Punakha, along with the rest of the participants on the Neykor trip and His Eminence Khedrupchen Rinpoche. As we talked, laughed, and tried to sing along to the cool Bhutanese songs being played in the bus (with the car following us), the country’s stunning rhododendron-dotted landscape passed us by. We stopped a few times to take pictures of beautiful valleys adorned with what looked like rubies!

Places to Visit in Punakha

Visit Chimi Lhakhang, Bhutan’s famous Fertility Temple

As we got close to Bhutan’s famous Fertility Temple Chimi Lhakhang, walking in the village of Sopsokha, we passed paddy fields and houses with walls and doors adorned with painted murals and sculptures of penises in different colors. The shops here displayed sculptures of penises painted with faces, animals and symbols that stood next to penis-shaped Christmas tree decorations and even tiny penis-shaped airplanes from the national carrier. While perhaps this Bhutanese symbol of fertility and protection was heavily featured here, we’d also seen it elsewhere in Bhutan, including at the living museum in Thimphu. I wrote more about that in this post about things to know about Bhutan.

Legends attribute the penis as a symbol of Lama Drukpa Kunley, the ‘Divine Madman’, an unconventional spiritual figure who was known for his risqué behavior, subjugating demonesses through fornication, venturing away from the path of abstinence, and taking what some might call an eclectic avant-garde approach to spreading Buddhist teachings. Standing on a hill, this monastery was built in 1499 by Ngawang Choegyel. Besides Buddhists, many notable people from all over the world and all faiths visit the temple to pray to be able to bear a child, and many believe that their prayers are answered.    

See Punakha Dzong, the grandest of Dzongs in Bhutan

As we approached our next destination, the sight of a grand fortress framed by lilac jacaranda blooms caused a considerable amount of excitement. This was Punakha Dzong, a fortress built in 1637 at the confluence of the rivers Pho Chu and Mo Chu, as the religious and administrative seat of the region. Punakha is the former capital of Bhutan and was the main seat of power until 1955 when the capital was moved to Thimphu.  

Around Bhutan are at least twenty dzongs that were built in the 17th century, mostly at higher vantage points such as hilltops, as defensive fortresses to prevent invasions from British India and Tibet. Constructed of mud, stone, and wood with arched windows and sloping roofs, their fortified walls house courtyards, temples, religious and historical artefcats, monks’ quarters, administrative and monastic offices, and in times of need, military bases. They are also the official venues where people gather to celebrate the district’s festival or tshechu. These were constructed with skilful techniques without the use of iron nails and with traditional Bhutanese woodwork by masterful craftsmen.    

Punakha Dzong holds great significance in Bhutan, and is considered as one of the most powerful dzongs in the country as this is where the dual system of government in Bhutan was introduced in the 17th century and where the first King Gongsar Ugyen Wangchuck was crowned in 1907. Over its lifetime, the dzong has suffered damage by four fires and an earthquake, but was restored to its full glory by the fourth King Jigme Singye Wangchuck. Today, it is the winter home of the head abbot of Bhutan, Je Khenpo. 

With visitor access to some parts of the dzong, it’s worth a visit to appreciate the magnificent traditional architecture and the excellent craftsmanship that’s apparent in the detailed woodwork. Photography is not allowed inside the temples. Afterwards, a short stroll in the dzong’s jacaranda gardens is a good way to reflect on the significance of this place.

Take a thrilling walk on the Pho Chhu Suspension Bridge

Our next stop was the Pho Chhu Suspension Bridge, Bhutan’s longest suspension bridge stretching 160 meters over the Pho Chu River. This 17th century steel bridge is an ancient engineering marvel that links the villages in the Pho Chu Valley with the Punakha Dzong and the rest of the area. Brushing aside my fear of heights, I gingerly stepped onto the bridge and walked halfway across, feeling the thrill of the Pho Chu gushing underneath.

From the other side, a group of monks, students from the monastery on the bank across, headed in our direction to cross the bridge. We requested them for a photo and they kindly obliged.

Where To Stay in Punakha

We stayed at Zhingkham Resort, which offered basic but comfortable, air-conditioned rooms with twin beds, a dressing table, and flat-screen TV. From our private balcony, there were surreal views over Punakha Dzong and Punakha Valley flanked by picturesque Himalayan peaks – a scene that felt like it was out of a movie or a painting. The buffet style meals and breakfast was served at the hotel’s restaurant. 

This evening, before dinner, at a group session led by His Eminence Khedrupchen Rinpoche, I had my first ever meditation session where my mind was not constantly telling me that I was “doing it wrong”. Instead, I felt my mind become as light as a leaf on a branch outside the room, enjoying the quietness of the evening.

Day 4: Punakha to Paro 

Soak in the Serenity at Lampelri Royal Botanical Park

Around 30 minutes after we left Punakha, we found ourselves strolling towards a lake at Lampelri Royal Botanical Park. Spread over 47 sq km, this beautiful park close to Dochu La Pass has a rhododendron garden, orchid garden, medicinal plant garden, lake, library, children’s play area, and more. We settled for a spot by the lake, seated in a circle on comfortable floor cushions while cups of tea were poured. 

A few minutes later, a bunch of strawberries, fresh from the surrounding forest had been pressed into my hand, a sweet accompaniment, unusually, to the most unlikely of topics of conversation that had been picked out by His Eminence Khedrupchen Rinpoche. “Let’s talk about anger,” he said, and one by one, each of us confided in the group about how we manage this emotion, whether it arises in us or is directed towards us. It was strangely therapeutic, as faces contorted in recognition of its power and tears were shed. To me, it felt incredible that His Eminence Khedrupchen Rinpoche had taken this group of strangers from around the world and  created a space that felt safer, perhaps, than the ones we’d left back home, among friends and families.

After we’d stopped once more at Dochu La Pass, we continued on towards Paro. Located at 2200m above sea level, Paro valley is home to monasteries and temples, Bhutan’s only international airport and Mt. Jomolhari (7,300m), whose glacial water forms the Paro River that flows through the valley. 

Places to Visit in Paro

Visit Kyichu Lhakhang

Legend has it that this 1,300-year-old temple in Paro – one of the oldest in Bhutan – is one of 108 temples built in a single night by the Tibetan King Songtsen Gampo to subdue an ogress. The name translates to ‘reservoir of peace’ and nearby is a museum dedicated to the late Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche.

Stroll Around Paro Town

After our long journey from Punakha, we were delighted to be able to walk around Paro Town. The main street is lined with cafes, restaurants, and shops selling paintings, sculptures, traditional clothing and shawls, handcrafted jewelry, and souvenirs and knick-knacks of all manner. At Brioche Cafe, we sat at a streetside table and enjoyed a coffee and brownie while people-watching.

As this was our last stop before our flight back home, we then set about shopping for some souvenirs here. We bought a few books by Bhutanese authors and I happily splurged on a jade necklace and a yak wool coat, made in Bhutan of course. Though shopping here was by no means cheap, I was happy to pay for the high value in the quality of the things I bought.   

Shop at The Farmers’ Market

At Kha ja Throm Paro or The Farmers’ Market, sacks of dried herbs, incense sticks, dried mushrooms, teas, and colorful rows of fresh fruits and vegetables jostled for our attention. Locals shopped for the ingredients of their next meal, fresh mushrooms, dried red chilies, and massive watermelons. Ankit and I bought some pure Himalayan incense because what better way to transport yourself to faraway lands that you’ve had the privilege to visit than summon their soothing smells? There’s a children’s park and live performance stage right next to the farmers’ market. 

Where To Stay in Paro

In Paro, we stayed at Resort Thim-Dorji Paro Riverfront, a beautiful resort surrounded by pine trees and with rooms and suites offering up close views of the Paro River. Our Junior Suite was spacious with an area of 38 sqm, a comfortable king bed, a living area with chairs and a TV, and an ensuite bathroom with a rainshower and a heated toilet. Amenities such as a kettle, hair dryer, bath amenities, wardrobe space, and bedside charging ports ensured we had a comfortable stay. 

The restaurant served delicious food including ema datsi (a cheese and chili stew), Bhutan’s national dish, that we enjoyed on our last night. Our group also enjoyed sitting under the night sky around a bonfire in the resort grounds, arranged on request. 

Day 5: Tiger’s Nest Monastery 

Hike to Tiger’s Nest Monastery

The next day we rose with the sun for our hike up to Paro Taktsang or Tiger’s Nest Monastery. We began the hike from the base 12 km away, a short drive from Paro Town, at 7.30am. For Buddhists, a visit to this clifftop monastery is more than a hike or a cultural attraction – one of the most sacred places of worship in Bhutan, it’s a pilgrimage site that many Buddhists and Bhutanese believe brings blessings to those who visit. Bhutanese folklore says that Guru Rinpoche flew here from Tibet on the back of a tigress (his consort Yeshey Tshogyal) and meditated in one of the caves, before emerging in eight manifestations.

This monastery is perched on a rock 800m above the Paro Valley at 2,950m above sea level. On this intermediate-level hike, we covered a roundtrip distance of 8km with an elevation gain of 700m in about eight hours, taking an hour each for a coffee and photo stop on the way up, lunch on the way down, and about an hour in the monastery.

The trail begins at the valley floor and is marked all the way. It took us through pine forests, past rhododendrons in bloom, colorful prayer flags, and prayer wheels that we spun for luck. After a steep climb up, we arrived at the cafeteria located halfway up where we stopped for tea and refreshments.

An hour later, we descended steep steps to a waterfall, and then ascended more steps, a total of 700, to finally arrive at Tiger’s Nest Monastery. For me, it was a surreal moment after having seen hundreds of photos of the monastery over the last few years. The joy of being so close to it washed away all of the exhaustion of the hike up and replaced it with the sweetness of gratitude. 

Once inside, we meditated in one of the temples, and visited the other temples in the complex learning about the legends and stories behind the figures represented in the statues from our guide. The energy felt both peaceful and powerful, and you didn’t need to be Buddhist or a believer to feel it.

Note that photography is not allowed inside and you’ll need to deposit your phone and cameras at the entrance of the monastery. 

Enjoy a Homecooked Feast at Dema Homestay

On our last evening with the Nekor group, we found ourselves at Dema Homestay, a family-run farmhouse in Lamgong, Paro. This ancestral home, built in the traditional architectural style, was decorated with beautifully unique memorabilia that belonged to the family, from black and white photographs and traditional tools to rich textiles and antiques of all manner. 

Our evening began in the home’s courtyard where we enjoyed watching live performances of traditional dances from all around Bhutan, typically performed during festivals. It was interesting to see that the choreography, music, and lyrics drew inspiration from folklore, nature, and animals and birds, such as the yak and black-necked cranes, showcasing the close and respectful relationship between them and Bhutanese culture. 

After much laughter, cheering, and dancing, we headed inside the house for a homecooked Bhutanese feast, graciously cooked by our hosts. We sat on floor cushions in the beautiful living room, reflecting on the last few days in Bhutan and everything we’d learned from His Eminence Khedrupchen Rinpoche and from each other. For most participants, it was an emotional moment and I realized that perhaps this Neykor trip had been life-changing and cathartic for most of our group. 

The homestay offers traditional-style rooms for guests as well as hot stone baths that seem like a great idea if you’ve spent the day hiking to Tiger’s Nest during the cooler months. 

Day 6: Visit to Haa Valley

For our last day in Bhutan, along with our guide Yuden, we headed for Haa Valley in western Bhutan with its dense forests and gorgeous peaks. Bordering the Indian state of Sikkim and close to the Tibetan border, this valley has the presence of the Indian military and only opened to tourism in 2002. To get to Haa, we made our way through Chele La Pass (3,988 m) that offered breathtaking views of both Paro and Haa valleys. 

Places to Visit in Haa Valley

Picnic in Haa Valley

After a brief stop at Chele La Pass, we continued onwards to Haa, surprised on the way by Yuden who set up a roadside picnic lunch surrounded by trees and grazing horses.

We’d have been happy with sandwiches but somehow he’d managed to pack a whole feast of cooked dishes, rice, noodles, chapatis, and coffee along with a fancy picnic rug in the car without us having found out. When he pulled all of this out from the trunk, we looked at each other, totally amazed.

The four of us sat down and enjoyed a leisurely feast while horses grazed around us and the occasional car drove past towards Haa. This place was certainly far off-the-beaten-path. The picnic, while a simple moment, was one of our highlights from the trip, a memory that perhaps we’ll go back to with, “Remember that time we picnicked in Bhutan on the way to Haa Valley?”

Visit The White Temple

Our first stop in Haa Valley was Lhakhang Karpo (The White Temple), one of two 7th-century temples in Haa out of a 108 believed to be built in a day around Bhutan by Tibetan king SongtsenGampo. Lhakhang Karpo and Lhakhang Nagpo (The Black Temple) stand at the base of the ‘Miri Punsum,’ a sacred site where three hills rise, and are believed to protect the people of Haa Valley. The compound of the temple hosts festival celebrations and sees the community gather annually. 

The temple’s traditional-style architecture was full of intricate and captivating details. Afterwards, we headed inside where red-robed monks engaged in prayer rituals. All around us, on the walls were paintings and murals of revered Buddhist saints, deities, and masters. 

Stroll around Haa Town

A stroll around Haa Town quickly revealed the slow pace of life in this part of Bhutan, perhaps slower than we’d seen anywhere else. The only tourists on the street, and perhaps in the town on that day, we peered in the windows of a few cafes and shops selling clothing, housewares, incense, and prayer flags. A few people ambled on the street, while two women chatted on a bench outside a grocery shop. A woman in a shop mistook Ankit for an Indian army officer, or perhaps was a master in flattery as a skilled saleswomen, but that ended with him buying a jacket and beaming with pride at the thought for the rest of the day. 

We returned to Paro for the night.

Day 7: Departure from Paro 

With hearts full of gratitude for the life-changing lessons we’d learned, the kindness we’d experienced, and the warmth with which we were welcomed into Bhutan, we bid farewell to our guide Yuden, who had now begun to feel as familiar as a friend.

We did not even need to say it out loud but the moments we’d experienced in Bhutan traveling with Druk Asia had already made us want to return in the near future. With one last nostalgic look at Bhutan’s spectacular peaks and forests, we set off towards Delhi on our DrukAir flight, while the Bhutanese song ‘Khaten’ played in my earphones. 

Practical Information for your Bhutan trip

You might also be interested in these essential things to know before you go to Bhutan.

Travel requirements: Visas and permits for Bhutan

Foreign tourists can apply for an e-visa online through the official Department of Immigration website before arriving in Bhutan or have their tour company handle the application. While Indian nationals only need a permit to enter Bhutan, citizens of other countries must obtain a visa. Passport holders from Bangladesh and the Maldives are eligible for visas on arrival. The visa fee is $40.

Foreign visitors can stay in Bhutan for up to 90 days with a visa. Indian nationals must present an Indian passport, voter ID card, or a birth certificate for those under 18 to receive a permit. This permit can be issued upon arrival, but it can also be applied for online in advance.

Indian tourists planning to get their permit on arrival should be prepared for a wait of 5 to 30 minutes, as many other Indian tourists will likely have the same plan.

Sustainable Development Fee (SDF) for tourists

To address over-tourism and promote high-value, low-impact tourism, Bhutan charges a daily Sustainable Development Fee (SDF) for all international tourists. As of May 2024, this fee is USD 100 per night, reflecting a 50% discount from the original USD 200 rate, and will remain in effect until 31st August 2027. Indian visitors are charged Nu 1200 (or INR 1200) per night. Children under six are exempt from the SDF, while those aged six to under twelve are required to pay 50% of the applicable fee.

The SDF funds various government projects aimed at social welfare, development, environmental conservation, cultural preservation, and infrastructure, including tourism and hospitality initiatives.

All foreign tourists must also pay the Sustainable Development Fee (SDF) for the duration of their stay through the visa portal. Indian tourists can choose to pay this on arrival but should bring cash to do so. 

How to get to Bhutan

The best way to get to Bhutan is to fly to Paro International Airport (PBH) on the national carrier, Drukair Royal Bhutan Airlines. Paro International Airport (PBH) is the main airport in Bhutan and it is serviced by two airlines. Drukair offers direct flights to Paro from Kathmandu, Dhaka, Bangkok, and Indian cities including Delhi, Kolkata, Bodh Gaya, Bagdogra, and Guwahati, as well as flights from Singapore with a connection in Guwahati. 

Founded in 1981, Drukair’s fleet comprises the Airbus A320neo, Airbus A319, ATR 42-600, and a H-13072 helicopter. For our trip from Dubai to Bhutan, we flew to New Delhi and then boarded a Drukair flight to Paro. From my recent experience, Drukair’s aircraft were in excellent condition and meticulously maintained.

The flight experience felt safe and we had no turbulence, although some is to be expected given the airport’s unique location in a valley between 18,000ft peaks and dense forests. On the flight, the service and food surpassed my expectations and the time passed quickly. With an inflight magazine and entertainment options available, the 2-hour and 20-minute flight from Delhi to Paro was both comfortable and enjoyable and met the standards of an international airline.

Best time to visit Bhutan

Bhutan is a year-round destination, with each season offering its unique reasons to visit. Like me, if you prefer mild weather and want to fully enjoy the country’s stunning landscapes, and plan to do some trekking then spring or autumn are good times to visit.  

Having visited Bhutan in May, we enjoyed some perfectly clear days. I loved seeing the bright red and pink rhododendrons in bloom and the lovely violet flowers of jacaranda trees around Punakha Dzong. During my visit to Thimphu, Gangtey, Punakha, Paro, and the Haa Valley, temperatures ranged from 9°C to 16°C, with bright, sunny days and cool, breezy evenings.

What is the local currency in Bhutan?

The Bhutanese currency, known as the Ngultrum (Nu), is pegged to the Indian Rupee and holds the same value. In towns like Paro and Thimphu, USD is accepted at many shops, though change is typically given in Ngultrum. 

Can you use cash and/or cards in Bhutan?

Major hotels, restaurants, and shops in places such as Thimphu, Punakha, and Paro also accept debit and credit cards, often with a small fee. It’s advisable to carry cash in Ngultrum or Indian Rupees for temple donations, small purchases, restroom fees at tourist sites, and gratuities for service staff.

Do you need to travel around Bhutan with a guide?

If you’ve been following along for a while, then you know that I usually enjoy traveling to new places independently, but even as a seasoned traveler, I quickly realized that Bhutan is a place where a local expert like Druk Asia can transform an average sightseeing-style trip into a profound, life-changing experience. Traveling with Druk Asia and relying on our Bhutanese guide Yuden Tenzin relieved me of the stress of organizing an itinerary or taking small decisions during our trip. Not only was he incredibly knowledgeable, passionate, and kind, but his insights and our interactions allowed us to truly understand the unique facets of Bhutanese culture and way of life, something we would have barely grasped on our own. For first-time visitors to Bhutan, I highly recommend opting for a local guide and traveling with Druk Asia rather than attempting independent travel.

While tourists can now visit Thimphu and Paro on their own, a guide is essential for exploring other areas. In truth, guides in Bhutan serve as cultural ambassadors in this unique part of the world. Without them, many tourists might overlook proper behavior and dress codes, and miss out on the rich traditions and spirituality that are central to Bhutanese life, and such a significant part of traveling in Bhutan.

Here are more travel tips for your trip to Bhutan.

Ankit and I visited Bhutan as guests of Druk Asia. All opinions, as always, are honest and independent.