Hiking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path: Our 14-Day Walk from Amroth to St Dogmaels


Table of Contents

The Pembrokeshire Coast Path in Wales is one of the best long-distance walks in Britain. For 299 km (186 miles) it follows a spectacular coastline from Amroth to St Dogmaels. Expect dramatic sea cliffs, white sand beaches, wildflowers, seabirds, colourful seaside villages and harbours with character, along with a few historic castles and numerous ancient forts.

John and I hiked the full Pembrokeshire Coast Path over 14 days starting in early June. We only carried our daypack and had our luggage transferred to B&Bs. It wasn’t always easy as many days were long – up to 30 kilometres – and over the two weeks you climb and lose more elevation than Mount Everest. If you’ve ever hiked the Fisherman’s Trail in Portugal, you’ll find that this is similar experience, though there is more mileage and more elevation gain and loss.

In my guide, I share our 14-day itinerary, daily distances and elevation gain, highlights from each stage, useful planning advice, and helpful tips so you can decide if hiking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path is a fit for you.

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Spectacular section of trail on the hike north to NewportHiking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path: Our 14-Day Walk from Amroth to St Dogmaels
The Pembrokeshire Coast Path is spectacular on the hike north to Newport

Pembrokeshire Coast Path at a Glance

  • Start point: Amroth, Pembrokeshire
  • End point: St Dogmaels, Pembrokeshire
  • Highest point: 175m/ 574 feet at Pen yr afr on Cemaes Head
  • Total distance: 299 km/ 186 miles
  • Total elevation gain: Approximately 9,780 m/ 32,085 feet
  • Time needed: 14 days
  • Difficulty: Moderate to challenging depending on length of hiking day
  • Accommodation: Hotels, B&Bs, inns, guesthouses, a few hostels, campgrounds
  • Luggage transfer available: Yes
  • Best time to hike: April through September
  • Highlights: Tenby, Barafundle Bay, Broad Haven South, Skomer Island, St. David’s, Whitesands Bay, sense of accomplishment, trail camaraderie
  • Don’t forget: Pack the 10 hiking essentials and practice the seven Leave No Trace principles.
Trail map of the Pembrokeshire Coast PathTrail map of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path
Trail map of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path from Amroth in the south to St Dogmaels in the north

Why Hike the Pembrokeshire Coast Path?

The 299-kilometre-long (186 miles) Pembrokeshire Coast Path is one of the best coastal trails in the world thanks to its world-class scenery that features rugged cliffs, more than 50 beautiful beaches, rocky coves, pastoral landscapes, and seaside Welsh towns and villages.

History lovers will relish seeing neolithic burial chambers, Norman castles, and Iron-Age promontory forts – while nature enthusiasts will enjoy looking for bottlenose dolphins and gray seals along with countless bird species including puffins – if you boat over to Skomer Island.

Dramatic red cliffs on the Pembrokeshire Coast PathDramatic red cliffs on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path
Hike up an down dramatic red cliffs going north to Bosherton

Who Will Love This Walk and Who Won’t

People that will love the Pembrokeshire Coast Path would be those that:

  • Love coastal scenery and are comfortable hiking beside airy cliffs
  • Birdwatchers
  • History buffs
  • Beach lovers
  • Hikers who enjoy oceanside cafes and Welsh-style pubs
  • Long-distance walkers
  • Hikers who enjoy constant elevation change

People who might dislike the coastal path include:

  • Hikers afraid of heights and airy paths
  • Hikers on a tight budget (especially with the British pound so high against other currencies)
  • Anyone who hates very windy weather
  • Those looking for big mountain scenery and/or remote wilderness
  • Hikers who don’t like a lot of elevation gain
Quite a sight to watch the waves above Newgale on the way to SolvaQuite a sight to watch the waves above Newgale on the way to Solva
Interesting to watch the waves at the beach by Newgale on the way to Solva

Highlights of Our Pembrokeshire Coast Path Hike

  • Some of the UK’s most picturesque beaches including Barafundle, Broad Haven, Whitesands, and Freshwater West
  • Great bird life
  • Dramatic coastal cliffs and formations especially on the northern section
  • Medieval and very colourful Tenby
  • Marloes Sands area
  • Skomer Island – an important seabird site (boat reservations required)
  • St. David’s – Britain’s smallest city with its spectacular 12thC Cathedral and Bishop’s Palace
  • Trail camaraderie
Lucky with a surprising amount of sunny weather on the Pembrokeshire Coast PathLucky with a surprising amount of sunny weather on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path
Lucky to have as many sunny, dry days as we did hiking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path in June

What to Know Before Hiking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path

Meals

All B&Bs and hotels we stayed in offered breakfast. We had lunch on the trail from supplies purchased in local stores. And we went out for dinner every night. It’s important to reserve a table in small places where there is only one place to stay and eat like St. Govan’s Inn. I’d recommend booking a table at restaurants on weekends, especially in the busier summer season.

Accommodation

In bigger centres like Tenby, St. David’s, and Solva, there is more choice when it comes to accommodation options. But book early wherever you go, especially in high season.

I’ve listed my favourite places we stayed at later in the blog.

Taxis and Buses

You may need a taxi at some point, so I do recommend that you carry a cell phone (with an e-sim card if you don’t live in the UK). Book a taxi days in advance if you know you’ll need one, especially if you have any distance to travel. Many of the towns have only one taxi and they just can’t handle much volume.

The Celtic Coaster is a great way to get around the St. David’s area. We used it getting to and from the trailhead at St. Justinians for £2.10 per person each way.

TrawsCymru is another long distance bus service. Some of the routes provide easy access to trailheads. Check out routes number T5 – Aberystwyth-Cardigan-Haverfordwest via Fishguard and T11 route – Haverfordwest-Fishguard via St. David’s.

There is also an on-demand bus service that allows you to book a ride that picks you up and drops you off directly along the coast or nearby hubs up to 30 days in advance. A lot of people we met were using it to hike sections of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path. It operates Monday to Saturday but bookings can be done any day of the week. Either download the Fflecsi App or call 0300 234 0300. Fares vary by distance – and they are much less expensive than using a taxi.

Navigation

There is a Wales Coast Path app – which we didn’t use but it might be useful to some of you. The Pembrokeshire Coast Path is part of the longer Wales Coast Path.

We used Organic Maps – a free, offline hiking app. The route was on it – and we tracked our distance and elevation gain every day. Most hiking apps should have the route on it. You could also try All Trails, Komoot, or Outdooractive.

Luggage Transfer

Walkalongway did an excellent job. We never once had to wait for our luggage. Bags can weigh no more than 18 kg or you get charged extra. Your bag needs to be ready for pick-up by 8:30 AM and they are always delivered by 5 PM.

Best Guidebook

We carried the Cicerone book – Walking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path. It comes with a map and very detailed day-to-day information that we rarely read. The path is very well-signed and marked, but some people might like the extra confidence of carrying a guidebook along with all the information provided.

June wildflowers along the Pembrokeshire Coast PathJune wildflowers along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path
Hike the Pembrokeshire Coast Trail in June for abundant wildflowers

When to Hike the Pembrokeshire Coast Path

Spring from April to May is ideal for coastal wildflowers and quiet trails. It’s also reportedly a drier time to visit. If you are a birder, it’s prime time for a visit to Skomer Island to see nesting seabirds like puffins and razorbills.

Summer from June to August is the warmest time to hike and there’s lots of daylight. It’s perfect if you’re after an afternoon swim. It’s also the busiest time, so prices go up and accommodation must be booked well in advance.

September can be a good time to hike with quieter trails and warm seas for swimming. It’s also the best time to see Atlantic grey seals and their pups on beaches.

Be prepared for Atlantic storms by the time October rolls around. From November to March you’ll need to deal with shorter daylight hours, solitude, colder temperatures and high winds – which wouldn’t be a lot of fun on top of the airy cliff sections.

Our 14-Day Pembrokeshire Coast Path Itinerary

Day 1: Amroth to Manorbier via Tenby

  • Distance: 24 km/ 14.9 miles
  • Elevation gain/loss: +930m/ -921 m
  • Time needed: 7 hours with breaks

Highlights

  • Hiking along an old railway and through abandoned railway tunnels
  • Saundersfoot – with cafes, ice cream and a pretty beach
  • Tenby Harbour view
  • Impressive views over to Caldey Island from Giltar Point
  • Thinking of today’s warfare and looking out to WWI practice trenches
  • Dramatic cliffs especially at Lydstep Point
Walking to the start of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path in AmrothWalking to the start of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path in Amroth
Walking to the start of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path in Amroth
John pointing to our starting point in Amroth on the Pembrokeshire Coast PathJohn pointing to our starting point in Amroth on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path
John pointing to our starting point in Amroth on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path
A blustery start to the Pembrokeshire Coast Path hike in WalesA blustery start to the Pembrokeshire Coast Path hike in Wales
A blustery start to the Pembrokeshire Coast Path hike
Back to where the taxi dropped us off in AmrothBack to where the taxi dropped us off in Amroth
Back to where the taxi dropped us off in Amroth – and no rain gear
Making quick time on a paved, flat section of trail on the way towards Tenby, WalesMaking quick time on a paved, flat section of trail on the way towards Tenby, Wales
Making quick time on a paved, flat section of trail on the way towards Tenby, Wales
Oak woods on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path Oak woods on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path
Into oak woods on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path as we hike towards Tenby
The beach you must walk on to get through TenbyThe beach you must walk on to get through Tenby
Walking past colourful houses on the beach in Tenby
Man hiking a long section of beach on the far side of TenbyMan hiking a long section of beach on the far side of Tenby
John hiking a long section of beach on the far side of Tenby
No entry when live firing on the way to ManorbierNo entry when live firing on the way to Manorbier
Note the live firing signage as you hike towards Manorbier fromTenby
Coastal scenery on the way to ManorbierCoastal scenery on the way to Manorbier
Dramatic coastal scenery on the hike to Manorbier
Lots of stairs by the coast on the way to Manorbier, WalesLots of stairs by the coast on the way to Manorbier, Wales
Getting into more interesting hiking on the way to Manorbier

Day 2: Manorbier to Bosherston

  • Distance: 17 km/ 10.6 miles
  • Elevation gain/loss: +421m/-392 m
  • Time needed: 5.75 hours with breaks

Highlights

  • Dramatic red sandstone cliffs and coves
  • Barafundle Bay – sometimes voted as one of the world’s most beautiful beaches
  • Stackpole Head
  • Bosherton Lily Ponds – a national nature reserve known for its bird life, otters, and water lilies
Hiking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path towards BoshertonHiking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path towards Bosherton
One of the many beautiful beaches we passed on the way to Bosherton
Unspoiled coastline on route to BoshertonUnspoiled coastline on route to Bosherton
Postcard worthy coastline on route to Bosherton
White sands of Barafundle BeachWhite sands of Barafundle Beach
The soft white sand at Barafundle Beach along with easy access ensures its popularity
Dramatic cliffs on the hike to Stackpole HeadDramatic cliffs on the hike to Stackpole Head
Cliff-top drama near Stackpole Head
Man at Stackpole Head on the Pembrokeshire Coast PathMan at Stackpole Head on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path
John checking out the view from Stackpole Head
Men walking across the Bosherton Lily PondsMen walking across the Bosherton Lily Ponds
Exploring the Bosherton Lily Ponds

Day 3: Bosherston to Angle (Ideally via Stack Rocks)

  • Distance: 26 km/ 16.2 miles
  • Elevation gain/loss: +324 m/ – 346 m
  • Time needed: 7.75 hours with breaks

Highlights

  • Stack Rocks reportedly (we had to detour to Warren through fields because of military firing)
  • St. Govan’s Chapel – a tiny 14th-century hermitage cave wedged into the cliffs (which we missed)
  • Freshwater West Beach
  • Airy cliff-top walking towards Angle
  • Looking out to Thorne Island – a renovated Napoleonic Fort
Passing the Castlemartin training range on the way to AnglePassing the Castlemartin training range on the way to Angle
Pass old tanks and the entrance to the Passing the Castlemartin training range
Lots of sheep in the fields along the Pembrokeshire Coast PathLots of sheep in the fields along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path
So many sheep and lambs to be seen in the fields along the path
Leaving Freshwater West BeachLeaving Freshwater West Beach
Hiking up sand dunes as we leave Freshwater West Beach
The lovely Freshwater West Beach on the Pembrokeshire Coast PathThe lovely Freshwater West Beach on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path
Freshwater West Beach makes a great lunch stop
Mind the cows along the Pembrokeshire Coast PathMind the cows along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path
Give cows space along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path
A wilder section of the Pembrokeshire Coast Trail on the way to AngleA wilder section of the Pembrokeshire Coast Trail on the way to Angle
A quiet, wilder section of the trail with airy clifftop walking on the way to Angle

Day 4: Angle to Pembroke

  • Distance: 16 km/ 10 miles
  • Elevation gain/loss: +226/ -280 m
  • Time needed: 5.5 hours with breaks

Highlights

  • Good bird life including wading birds
  • Walk beside Wales’ largest estuary, one of the deepest natural harbours in the world marveling at the infrastructure, tankers, and ships large tankers
  • Pwllcrochan Pond & Marshland – a peaceful pond even though its within sight of the refinery
Lunch time at Pwllcrochan Pond and MarshlandLunch time at Pwllcrochan Pond and Marshland
We found a great place for lunch – Pwllcrochan Pond & Marshland – though within sight of the stacks
Man hiking in pretty woods on the way to PembrokeMan hiking in pretty woods on the way to Pembroke
John hiking through a pretty section of forest on the way from Angle to Pembroke
Valero oil refinery serves as a backdropValero oil refinery serves as a backdrop
Hiking past the Valero oil refinery on route to Pembroke

Day 5: Pembroke to Sandy Haven

  • Distance: 25.7 km/ 16 miles
  • Elevation gain/loss: 600m /1970 feet
  • Time needed: 7 hours with breaks

Highlights

  • Walking past swans at the pond at Pembroke Castle
  • Colouful town of Neyland
  • Finally leaving the industrial section of the path behind
Handsome Pembroke Castle in PembrokeHandsome Pembroke Castle in Pembroke
Handsome Pembroke Castle in Pembroke
Walking across the Cleddau Bridge towards NeylandWalking across the Cleddau Bridge towards Neyland
Walking across the Cleddau Bridge towards Neyland
Walking past colourful houses in NeylandWalking past colourful houses in Neyland
Colourful houses in Neyland
Old stone walls cover with flowers along the Pembrokeshire Coast TrailOld stone walls cover with flowers along the Pembrokeshire Coast Trail
Loved all the old stone walls we passed covered in colourful flowers
NG piping near Milford Haven on the Pembrokeshire Coast TrailNG piping near Milford Haven on the Pembrokeshire Coast Trail
We’re ready to leave the area around the LNG plant behind
Hiking north towards Sandy HavenHiking north towards Sandy Haven
Finally past the industrial area and hiking north towards Sandy Haven

Day 6: Sandy Haven to Marloes Sands

  • Distance: 29 km/ 18 miles
  • Elevation gain/loss: +470m/-446 m
  • Time needed: 8.5 hours with breaks

Highlights

  • Hiking across the bay on stepping stones if you’re within 2.5 hours of low tide
  • Dramatic cliff-top views and wildflowers
  • Pretty seaside village of Dale
  • Marloes Sands
Overgrown section of the Pembrokeshire Coast TrailOvergrown section of the Pembrokeshire Coast Trail
Some sections of the trail are very overgrown- though they do try to cut it back
Watching the Irish Ferry after leaving DaleWatching the Irish Ferry after leaving Dale
We see the Irish ferry many times while hiking the path
Looking down at Marloes Sands at the end of a long hiking dayLooking down at Marloes Sands at the end of a long hiking day
Marloes Sands is one long, beautiful beach

Day 7: Marloes Sands Loop (Skomer Island)

  • Distance: 12 km/7.5 miles
  • Elevation gain/loss: +187 m/-188 m
  • Time needed: 4 hours with breaks

Skomer Island

We had set aside a day so we could visit Skomer Island. It’s a world-renowned National Nature Reserve – but only one boat company is able to land on it. I’d been told to book in advance – so I tried a month out and no luck. Booking in advance really means book on December 1st when it opens for the following spring and summer. There are also boat cruises of various durations but we opted instead to enjoy a hike at a leisurely pace – to make day 8 easier.

Highlights

  • Islands and dramatic cliffs looking out to Skomer Island
  • Gorgeous fields in a palette of yellows and greens
  • Watching an enormous number of gulls fly by
Pembrokeshire Coast Trail near Marloe SandsPembrokeshire Coast Trail near Marloe Sands
Hiking towards a lookout over to Skomer Island
Rocky coastal trail near Marloe SandsRocky coastal trail near Marloe Sands
Coming around to Skomer Island seen in the distance
People lined up for the boat tour to Skomer IslandPeople lined up for the boat tour to Skomer Island
People lined up to get on a boat tour to Skomer Island
Pastoral scene near Marloes SandsPastoral scene near Marloes Sands
Colourful pastoral scenes near Marloe Sands

Day 8: Marloes Sands to Broad Haven

  • Distance: 15 km/ 9.3 miles
  • Elevation gain/loss: +251 m/-290 m
  • Time needed: 4. 25 hours with breaks

Highlights

  • Stunning hiking in fields and along the coast
  • St Brides Haven Beach and Broad Haven Beach
  • Little Haven – a cute village
On the way to Broad HavenOn the way to Broad Haven
Beautiful coastal scenery on the hike to Broad Haven
St Brides Haven beach is a great place for a breakSt Brides Haven beach is a great place for a break
Enjoyed a break at St Brides Haven beach – reportedly a favourite of divers
Peering over an airy cliff on the hike to Broad HavenPeering over an airy cliff on the hike to Broad Haven
Peering over a cliff as we hike towards Broad Haven

Day 9: Broad Haven to Solva

  • Distance: 18 km/ 11.2 miles
  • Elevation gain/loss: +638m/ -633m
  • Time needed: 5.75 hours with breaks

Highlights

  • A lunch time stop just as it started to rain in a cafe in Nolton Haven
  • Beach walking
  • Splendid view of Newgale Sands
  • The pretty coastal village of Solva with its boat-filled harbour
Leaving for Solva in mist and windLeaving for Solva in mist and wind
Heading to Solva prepared for rain but we mostly got mist
A wiggly path along the coast towards SolvaA wiggly path along the coast towards Solva
Hiking a wiggly path as we head north towards Solva
Looking down at the beach near Newgale on the Pembrokeshire Coast PathLooking down at the beach near Newgale on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path
We’ll drop down to the beach and walk it to Newgale
Enjoyable hiking on route to SolvaEnjoyable hiking on route to Solva
Enjoying this easy hiking on the way to Solva
A surprising amount of up and down on the final approach to SolvaA surprising amount of up and down on the final approach to Solva
We still have some up and down to reach Solva and its pretty harbour
Interesting to see a harbour full of boats at low tide in Solva

Day 10: Solva to St. Justinians

  • Distance: 17 km/ 10.6 miles
  • Elevation gain/loss: +316 m/-298 m
  • Time needed: 5 hours with breaks

Highlights

  • Exceptional cliff top walking and rocky coves
  • Pretty harbour in St. Justinians
Looking over a cliff from a safe distance on the Pembrokeshire Coast PathLooking over a cliff from a safe distance on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path
Always cool to peer over the edge but I never liked to get very close
Solva to St. Justinians on the Pembrokeshire Coast PathSolva to St. Justinians on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path
Heading north towards St Justinians from Solva

Day 11: St. Justinians to Trefin

  • Distance: 23 km/ 14.3 miles
  • Elevation gain/loss: +510 m/-476 m
  • Time needed: 7.25 hours with breaks

Highlights

  • Looking across to Ramsey Island – settled since early Christian times
  • Whitesands Beach and Bay
  • Coeatan Arthur Dolman
  • The hike towards Carn Llidi
  • Excellent seabird viewing
  • Hiking past sheer cliffs and through beautiful fields +fabulous rock formations
  • Blue Lagoon
Lots of swimmers at Whitesands BayLots of swimmers at Whitesands Bay
Committed swimmers at Whitesands Bay
Coeatan Arthur Dolman or Arthur's QuoitCoeatan Arthur Dolman or Arthur's Quoit
Coeatan Arthur Dolman – the remains of a Neolithic burial chamber – dates back to about 3000 BC
Hiking towards Carn Llidi on the Pembrokeshire Coast PathHiking towards Carn Llidi on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path
Heading towards Carn Llidi near St. David’s

Day 12: Trefin to Goodwick – Our Hardest Day

Day 12 was the hardest of the entire Pembrokeshire Coast Path for us. At 30 km with almost 700 m of elevation gain, it was physically demanding and the number of hours of hiking was long. But, it also delivered some of the trail’s most spectacular scenery, including Strumble Head, dramatic headlands, and the beautiful beaches of Abermawr and Aberbach.

  • Distance: 30 km/ 18.6 miles
  • Elevation gain/loss: +692 m/-709m
  • Time needed: 9.25 hours with breaks

Highlights

  • Picturesque Abercastle
  • Abermawr and Aberbach Beaches
  • Strumble Head Lighthouse – and the striking views on the hike to the lighthouse
  • Scenic repeating headlands north of Goodwick
Scenic AbercastleScenic Abercastle
The hike down to scenic Abercastle
Abermawr BeachAbermawr Beach
Abermawr Beach
Stellar views on the hike north to GoodwickStellar views on the hike north to Goodwick
One of my favourite views along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path
Hiking towards the Strumble Head Lighthouse at Strumble HeadHiking towards the Strumble Head Lighthouse at Strumble Head
Hiking towards Strumble Head and the lighthouse

Day 13: Goodwick to Newport

  • Distance: 23 km/ 14.3 miles
  • Elevation gain/loss: +492 m/-477m
  • Time needed: 7.5 hours with breaks

Highlights

  • Gorgeous and colourful Fishguard Harbour
  • Some of the most dramatic cliffs on the trail
  • Massive low tide near Newport – unlike anything I’ve seen before
Love this Seahorse sculpture in FishguardLove this Seahorse sculpture in Fishguard
Love this Seahorse sculpture we hiked past in Fishguard
Scenic Lower Town in Fishguard HarbourScenic Lower Town in Fishguard Harbour
Lower Town in Fishguard Harbour is very pretty
Lots of up and down on the way to NewportLots of up and down on the way to Newport
Going down and then right back up gain – a common theme on many days
Short sections of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path are roped off because of slumpingShort sections of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path are roped off because of slumping
Evidence of slumping on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path (roped off)
Newport Bay at low tide is massiveNewport Bay at low tide is massive
Watching fishers in Newport Bay

Day 14: Newport to St Dogmaels

  • Distance: 26 km/ 16.2 miles
  • Elevation gain/loss: +685m/ -695m
  • Time needed: 8.25 hours with breaks

Highlights

  • Very airy cliff top walking
  • Amazing geology and folded rocks
  • Dolphin sightings
  • Finishing the trail (though the last 5 km on road was underwhelming)
Gorgeous grasses and wildflowers leaving Newport on the Pembrokeshire Coast PathGorgeous grasses and wildflowers leaving Newport on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path
I felt like I was hiking through a painting leaving Newport
Following the coastline closely towards St. DogmaelsFollowing the coastline closely towards St. Dogmaels
Closely following the coastline as we head north
Hiking towards the Witch's Cauldron on the Pembrokeshire Coast PathHiking towards the Witch's Cauldron on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path
Look down into the Witch’s Cauldron from the top of the stairs John is heading towards
Rock that looks like a head on the way to St DogmaelRock that looks like a head on the way to St Dogmael
A coastal rock that looks like a head to me
Coastal path above crazy folded rocks near Cemaes Head Nature ReserveCoastal path above crazy folded rocks near Cemaes Head Nature Reserve
Nearing the end of the airy section along the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path on our last day of hiking
On the finish marker in a park in St Dogmael
Two people finishing the Pembrokeshire Coast Path in St DogmaelsTwo people finishing the Pembrokeshire Coast Path in St Dogmaels
And it’s a wrap – feeling quite pleased with ourselves but will miss the simplicity of simply hiking all day

Our Favourite Sections of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path

My favourite sections of the path are the following:

  • The hike around Stackpole Head
  • Colourful hiking with amazing cliff top views on the approach to Marloes Sands
  • The last day with the crazy folding in the rocks
  • Walking the length of Freshwater West Beach
  • Admiring the crazy tidal variation heading into Newport
  • The hike towards Stumblehead Lighthouse
Colourful rocky cliffs heading north to Marloes SandsColourful rocky cliffs heading north to Marloes Sands
Lucky to have a sunny day to enjoy this colourful section on the way north to Marloes Sands

The Most Beautiful Beaches on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path

There are officially 58 beaches on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path – so it’s hard to choose a favourite. A couple that stood out for me were Barafundle Beach, Whitesands Beach, and Freshwater West Beach.

The popular beach at Barafundle BayThe popular beach at Barafundle Bay
Barafundle Beach
Freshwater West BeachFreshwater West Beach
Freshwater West Beach is very popular as a swimming beach year round
Pass Whitesands Bay heading north to TrefinPass Whitesands Bay heading north to Trefin
Pass gorgeous Whitesands Bay as you head north towards Trefin

Facilities Along the Coastal Path

You’ll find shops, banks, pharmacies, and post offices in the following towns: Saundersfoot, Tenby, Pembroke, Pembroke Dock, Milford Haven, St. David’s, Fishguard. and Cardigan. Smaller villages along the hike might have a pub or two, local food shops, and occasionally an ATM.

Was the Pembrokeshire Coast Path Difficult?

The Pembrokeshire Coast Path is technically easy with no scrambling required – but it can be physically challenging. Some days are long (18 mi/30 km was our longest) because there just aren’t that many options for B&B or hotel stays. We wanted to be finished in 14 days – because just getting to and from Canada took four days of our time. If your schedule is more flexible and you allow 17 -18 days, you can decrease the mileage and make it easier on yourself.

There is also considerable elevation gain on many days with loads of up and down over the length of a hiking day.

Mentally, I found some of the very exposed cliff sections difficult – especially in strong winds.

Warning sign related to sheer cliffs especially on the Pembrokeshire Coast PathWarning sign related to sheer cliffs especially on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path
Heed the warnings on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path

What Direction Should You Hike?

We hiked from south to north which has many advantages. You build up physically for the harder days ahead – and the scenery gets more dramatic the further north you go, except for the industrial area around Pembroke. The sun is at your back save for a few days at the end when you round the headland, but the wind is in your face.

I noticed that hikers heading from north to south on the few sunny, warm days we had were very uncomfortable with the sun beating down on them. Many people had t-shirts pulled over their heads to give them some relief. But on windy days, they would fare better.

Easy to tell which way the wind blows when you see shrubs like this on the Pembrokeshire Coast PathEasy to tell which way the wind blows when you see shrubs like this on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path
Which way does the wind blow?

Costs of Hiking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path

We chose to book with a company who organized our baggage transfers, taxi pickups, and all our accommodation. We had to cover lunches and dinners, a couple of buses, and of course getting to and from the starting points.

It’s one of the harder multi-day hikes to organize on your own as towns are so spread out and services are not always readily available.

Budget for the following:

  • Meals – Notably lunch and dinner as breakfast is included unless you are camping. I found food to be pricey with basic fish and chips running around £17 – £22. Stock up on picnic supplies where you can. I found bringing some snack food with us like salted cashews and protein bars saved a lot of money.
  • Hotels – Prices from what I’ve seen online were generally reasonable. My favourite place on the trail, Cnapan Guest House, (save for my birthday splurge) costs £264 for two nights. There are several places where there are two night minimums – and hence the use of taxis might be required. One of the pleasant but more basic places we stayed at – The Lobster Pot in Marloes runs around £116 per night.
  • Camping – No wild camping is permitted in Wales, but you could save a lot of money by carrying all your gear and camping at official campsites or youth hostels along the route. Budget £15 – £54 per night at a youth hostel. Campsites run from £12 – £35 per night based on amenities and how close they are to a beach,
  • Transportation – If you can’t walk to and leave from your accommodation, you will need to budget for a bus or taxi. Buses are affordable with pricing based on distance. Allow £2 – £4 per person per trip.
A mix of pastoral and cliff top scenery near Marloe Sands.A mix of pastoral and cliff top scenery near Marloe Sands.
A nice mix of purple cliffs and green fields on route to Marloe Sands

Accommodation We Loved Along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path

We had all accommodation arranged for us by Celtic Trails. Some of the accommodation was really good and some was just fine. We enjoyed our stay at the ones listed below but appreciate that sometimes we stayed two nights and took a taxi or bus to the next trailhead or we got picked up by a taxi.

There aren’t a lot of choices most nights.

Bosherton

St. Govans Inn – The rooms are tiny and the beds aren’t that comfortable, but the towels are thick and the vibe in the dining room is really good. And it’s just a short walk up from the lily ponds.

Pembroke

Woodbine Bed & Breakfast – With a great location on the main street just a short walk from the castle and a go-getter host, you’ll enjoy friendly Welsh hospitality, a large bedroom, and a delicious breakfast.

Milford Haven

Ty Milford Waterfront is a newer hotel so the rooms feel fresh but bland. Still, their location is excellent and nearby we had a very good dinner at Martha’s Vineyard.

Broad Haven

Rwts-Rooms and Resto – While the rooms are very small, they are tastefully done and their restaurant is really good. They also have a great location across from a big beach.

St. David’s

Twr y Felin – We stayed here over my birthday as a treat. It was wonderful with a big room, friendly service and lots of amenities. It was also just a 2-minute walk to catch the bus to St. Justinians.

Newport

Cnapan Guest House – wonderful hosts, spacious rooms, and an excellent breakfast. After eating one of the best meals in Wales at Llys Meddyg I’d also recommend them.

Tips for Hiking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path

Trail Signage and Waymarkers

We used Organic Maps on occasion – usually when we were trying to get out of a small town or city. Otherwise, we just followed the well-marked and signed path. Acorns are the symbol used for the Pembrokeshire Coast Path whereas dragon shells are used for the Wales Coast Path. If you see either of them, you’re on the right trail.

The trail follows the coast, so that’s your other clue. Even through the industrial area around Pembroke, we found great signage through what I thought would have been a confusing area.

Excellent trail marking and signage on the Pembrokeshire Coast PathExcellent trail marking and signage on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path
Look for public footpaths marked by a yellow arrow in places along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path
Acorns and dragon shells are the symbols to look for on the Pembrokeshire Coast PathAcorns and dragon shells are the symbols to look for on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path
You’re on the right trail if you see acorns or dragon shells on a signpost

Check Operating Hours of the Military Firing Range

On the day you hike between Bosherton and Angle, you will need to know if the Castlemartin Firing Range is accessible. Access is permitted across the range from lower Warren Road via Stacks Rock to Trevallen.

You can call the range office for a pre-recorded message about the next day’s firing program at 01646 662 367. We found out from our server at the St. Govan Inn that it was closed from Monday to Friday when we hiked – so we missed out on seeing Stack Rocks – reportedly one of the highlights along the trail. Instead, we had to hike inland to Warren through farmer’s fields – pretty enough but not the same as hiking along the coast.

Warning signs related to the active military firing rangeWarning signs related to the active military firing range
There’s an active military firing range so you may need to detour and miss Stack Rocks

High Tide Obstacles

There are two high tide obstacles – both of which you encounter on the hike from Sandy Haven to Marloes Sands.

The first near Sandy Haven requires that you hike from Sandy Haven across stepping stones, 2.5 hours either side of low tide. If your timing is bad, you can take a taxi and have them drop you off on the other side of the inlet. Here is a link to the Sandy Haven tide chart.

The second high tide obstacle is near Dale. You need to tide to be within 3.5 hours of low tide to safely cross Gann Flats. Apparently you need to ford a stream via a short causeway. Our timing was such that we did the high tide variant – heading on a signed path through farmers fields and ultimately on the road into Dale. It added 3 miles to our day. Check out this tide chart for the Dale area.

There are stepping stones across this bay at low tide in Sandy HavenThere are stepping stones across this bay at low tide in Sandy Haven
If we had been able to visit at low tide we could have walked across this bay from Sandy Haven
People on the low tide causeway coming into DalePeople on the low tide causeway coming into Dale
A number of people hiking towards Dale once low tide was reached

Pack Rain Pants

Fortunately, we only had rain for a total of about two hours over two weeks – though we did have sprinkles on occasion. If it has rained, the undergrowth will be soaking – and so will you within minutes of hiking. On those days, I’d recommend rain pants and perhaps even half gaiters to try and keep your socks dry.

Getting soaked hiking through wet grassesGetting soaked hiking through wet grasses
You’ll be soaked in short order if the grasses and shrubbery are wet on narrow trails

Beware of Stinging Nettles

Copious quantities of stinging nettles were along the edges of the southern end of the trail in particular. For one week, we dodged them – though we also got stung plenty too. We wore shorts – so if you 100% want to avoid them, wear long pants.

Nettles along the Pembrokeshire Coast PathNettles along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path
Learn to recognize stinging nettles – often seen along the sides of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path

Pembrokeshire Coast Path vs. Portugal’s Fisherman’s Trail

In the last 18 months I have hiked 12 days on the Fisherman’s Trail in Portugal and 14 days on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path in Wales I enjoyed both of them – but if I could only pick one, I’d go for the Fisherman’s Trail.

I like the fact that the Fisherman’s Trail was a seamless experience insofar that you never needed taxis or buses and could literally walk from one town to another. I found the accommodation to be good and our money went further.

If you love history, birds, beautiful harbours and picturesque villages along with some stunning white sand beaches, then the Pembrokeshire Coast Path is an excellent choice. Overall, days were longer and there was more elevation gain.

Pembrokeshire Coast Path Fisherman’s Trail
More elevation gain and loss Overall easier hiking and shorter days
Luggage shuttle available Luggage shuttle available
Easier planning using taxis and buses Seamless trail with no taxis/buses needed
More historical interest An inland route offers lots of history
More expensive Less expensive
Cooler temperatures and more wind Sunnier and warmer
More dramatic cliffs More interesting beachscape
Rich abundance of birds + Skomer Island option Fisherman on cliffs, storks

Is the Pembrokeshire Coast Path Worth Hiking?

In my opinion, the Pembrokeshire Coast Path is well worth hiking. It’s a true coastal path with long stretches every day right beside the ocean. There is very little road walking – and it isn’t nearly as busy as many other long distance trails in Europe. If you’re looking for a challenge – as it is a hard hike with long hiking days and lots of up and down, then you’ll probably enjoy the experience.

I loved all the beaches and the colourful towns and villages – though we didn’t have much extra time to explore by doing the hike in 14 days. We also had very good weather – considering we were in Wales. The wind howled the first week and softened the second – but we never had much rain – which might colour your experience.

Looking precarious on the Pembrokeshire Coast PathLooking precarious on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path
This is on the first day of hiking and it certainly looks precarious but I can’t remember the exact place

More Multi-Day Hikes in Europe

  • Hiking the Stunning Via Alpina in Switzerland – A spectacular multi-day route linking alpine villages, high passes, and jaw-dropping mountain scenery across the heart of the Swiss Alps.
  • Sweden’s Kungsleden Trail Guide: Abisko to Nikkaluokta – A classic Arctic trek above the Arctic Circle featuring wide valleys, alpine tundra, glacial rivers, and welcoming mountain huts along one of Sweden’s most iconic long-distance trails.
  • Alta Via 2: My 8-Day Trek Through the Dolomites & What to Expect – A detailed look at hiking Alta Via 2 in Italy’s Dolomites, covering daily stages, hut stays, difficulty, and what to expect on this challenging multi-day trek.
  • The Best Part of Hiking the GR221 in Mallorca – Rugged trails, ancient villages, and jaw-dropping Mediterranean views along Mallorca’s legendary GR221.
  • Hiking La Gomera – A One Week Itinerary  – A scenic week-long hiking adventure on La Gomera, linking laurel forests, coastal villages, and quiet mountain trails in one of the Canary Islands’ most unspoiled landscapes.

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Hiking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path in WalesHiking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path in Wales



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四季花草自然观察笔记
城市建筑背后的故事
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湖边午后的阅读时光
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简单快乐的每日生活
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冬日咖啡与温暖时刻
世界美食文化生活记录
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星空下的宁静生活
创意家居空间设计灵感
四季花草自然观察记录
雨后森林里的清新空气
历史建筑背后的文化故事
清晨河畔的悠闲时光
艺术世界里的奇妙色彩
乡村田野的美好记忆
健康生活每日小知识
海边日落摄影生活日记
古镇街巷文化漫步
花园里的快乐生活故事
探索自然世界的新发现
午后阳光里的安静时光
现代城市生活观察笔记
春日湖边的悠闲生活
城市街角的艺术故事
清晨森林里的自然声音
传统文化生活探索笔记
夏日花园摄影故事
现代家庭创意空间
秋日山谷里的温暖阳光
寻找生活中的美好瞬间
午后咖啡与书香生活
世界美食文化探索日记
冬日森林的宁静故事
绿色植物与家居生活
山间小路旅行随想
古老建筑里的历史记忆
快乐周末生活记录
星空下的安静阅读时间
四季自然色彩摄影笔记
创意艺术与生活灵感
雨后花园里的清新时刻
简单健康的每日生活
城市夜晚灯光摄影记录
乡村田园里的幸福时光
探索艺术世界的新发现
海边清晨的温柔阳光
花草世界自然观察日记
古镇街巷里的生活故事
春日森林里的温暖阳光
城市街头艺术生活记录
清晨湖畔的宁静故事
传统文化与生活美学
秋季山谷自然摄影笔记
现代家庭创意生活分享
夏日花园里的美好时光
探索古老艺术文化故事
午后咖啡与阅读生活
绿色植物自然观察日记
冬日小屋里的温馨故事
世界美食文化探索笔记
星空下的安静阅读时光
四季花草生活新发现
雨后森林的清新世界
创意家居设计灵感分享
海边黄昏的浪漫风景
古镇街道里的历史记忆